More excellent thin face climbing with small crimps and sidepulls on slightly less-than-vertical granite.  Similar in character to Happy Feet, this line begins with difficult, strenuous face moves with a crux between the 1st and 3rd bolt.  Higher, a relatively easy lip encounter leads to more 5.10 face climbing to the anchors.

Under Siege

Hostile Takeover

Hostile Takeover Variation

Lancelot

Ecksteinator

Happy Feet

Old Punks on Crack

Presumably named for local hero Chris Eckstein, this fine route offers sustained movement on top-notch stone.  Begin on the furthest left line o' bolts, veering leftwards as you ascend.  It may be necessary to remove some of the local vines prior to beginning.  The crux comes where you'd think, at the green-lichen-coverd bulge at midheight.  A devious sequence gains the lip of the bulge, which is unexpectedly easy to turn.  Substantially easier face moves finish at the chains.

This is the premier route at Gilman.  With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all.  Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral.  Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest.  Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs.  An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless 5.10 face moves await.  Snake back and forth up the long wall staying right of the splitter crack.

This variation to Hostile Takeover climbs the beautiful 25'-tall, green-lichen coated arete right of Under Siege before joining Hostile Takeover.  This line is a good option for those who can't get enough of Hostile Takeover, but is probably the lesser of the two versions, and only slightly more difficult.  This version is also a bit more heady--the 4th bolt is mostly for looks, as it is nearly impossible to clip until such point as it is no longer terribly helpful. 

  Head up the let side of the arete with good sidepulls in the obvious diagonal cracks on the face.  Several good stances right of the arete are available in the first 10 feet.  Around the second bolt, move left onto the face, generally keeping the right hand on the arete, as the left hand works thin crimps and shallow cracks on the face.  Tiny footholds lead to an obvious break at the third bolt, where the holds diminish and aesthetic (though disconcerting) green lichen abound.  Several difficult crux-like moves lead to a desperate stance, eye-level with the 4th bolt.  Attempt to clip and risk decking as your feet grease off lichen coated ripples, or gun for the ledge and clip at waist-level from good jugs.  Mantle the ledge, rest up, steady your nerves, and join Hostile Takeover for 60 more feet of excellent edging.

Ramble up the lower angle rock to the base of the steep arete. Head up the arete starting on the right, steep side. Some long pulls and sloping holds make up the hardest moves on the route. However as you get higher you have to move around the arete to the left side which is quite delicate and different from the hard moves earlier so stay focused.

Happy Feet is a variation to the stellar Hostile Takeover that avoids the difficult roof-crux.  This line still packs plenty of punch, sharing the first three bolts of extreme face climbing on HT.  Begin as for HT, but after reaching the ramp'ish rock above the third bolt, head right and over the bulge with relative ease to a long headwall of excellent 5.10 face climbing.   

  Another variation to Happy Feet avoids the crux bolts 1-3 by scrambling up to the upper Perp Area and traversing into Happy Feet at ~10c.

This superb route follows the splitter crack in the middle of the Right Broken Arrow face. The climb starts in a dihedral (a convenient bolt keeps this part from being too runout), and transition into the splitter crack after pulling through a small overhang section. The combination of dihedral, crack, and face moves makes for a great climb on solid rock.

The Right Arrow is home to the best rock at Gilman, the best routes and Gilman, and the longest singlepitch routes at Gilman.  If you have time for only one crag, this is the one to visit.  The Crag offers a nice flat cliff base area, somewhat separated from the tourists, and is a great place to spend the day.   All of the routes on this wall have a similar character, with very technical and thin starts, to some sort of roof, finishing up long, relatively moderate slabs. 

  Routes here appear a bit intimidating due to the blank nature of the lower third of the cliff.  Most of the route cruxes are in the first several bolts, so don't be put off if you have trouble getting started.  Stick clip strongly recommended for this cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Right Arrow