5.8 Sport Lines at Index are as common as Unicorns and Doug Thompson found  both with this line.

Climb the obvious monster flake, clip the bolts, finishing to the Right of the crack,  and RIDE THAT UNICORN!!!

Doug Thompson's Unicorn

Doug Thompson's Root Canal

Happy Puppy

Doug Thompson gets the First Ascent

Trapped Balls

XL Extra Large

Doug Thompson's Lesbian Unicorn Off-Width

Troubled Waters

Who Put The Purr In My Pussy

This climb is a little contrived but has lots of fun movement.  Start up the same crack as "Doug Thompson Gets the First Ascent" then head right toward the Crescent Cave.  Pull around the cave roof using rock and roots then climb right of the giant maple to a ledge.  Climb back behind the maple and directly up the slab past the bolt.  Alternatively one can avoid the crux slab moves by escaping right up some easy 5th class.  The anchor is obvious and up a couple ledges from the final slab.

Not truly a new climb, but it needed a new, more appropriate name.

This route climbs the obvious steep flared chimney with the handcrack in the back.  Start by scrambling up to the base of the crack below the chimney, then lieback it to a rest at the base of the chimney.  Now jam the perfect splitter handcrack for 40 feet, then scramble up to the bolt anchor.

This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, but is very good.

Start from the trail and begin just to the right of Happy Puppy. Fun 5.6 Jug Jumping, 5.9 face and crack (use the tree to chimney if you want) onto the ramp, followed by a 5.8 finger crack through a roof and short crux. Then scramble to the anchor shared with Happy Puppy.

Starts in a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which is part of a large flake-pedestal. Goes to the top of the pedestal then straight up the face crack.

Left-leaning corner with wide hand crack in the back. Short route, but clean.

Leading this is not recommended as ropes could be cut by the flake in a fall. Stick to Top Roping it.  All Off-Widths are 5.15d.

Face climb with bolts and small gear. The crux is fairly low and the gear is easy to place. As of early 2015, there are new bolts and new anchor so the climb is easy to protect.

Can easily be TR'd from the shared anchor of "Who Put the Purr..."

The 2017 guidebook rates it 11a, the previous guide, 10d. On TR, it may feel easier.

This route features some interesting varied climbing with a combination of face holds and cracks.  Climb directly up the face staying between the 2 aretes then finish on the upper crack. Bolted anchor at top (shared with Troubled Waters to the left).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Missing Bottle Buttress