A steep 1/2" to 1" crack in beautifully smooth red and pink rock defines the first half of this route.  Climb up moderate rock to the base of the crack (no pro).  Load up on gear from a good stance and then power through the next 30' of crack.  A pumpy yet secure traverse left joins a right-facing dihedral and it's moderate crack.  Follow to chains.  The left-hand start comes in at 5.9+.

A very shady climb.  Sees limited sunlight at the height of summer.

Anti-Clique Crack

Two-Headed Boy

Indian Leg-Wrestling

Time Lapse

Mongrel  Wave

Mr. Hamburger

Good luck finding this. Top of The Dregs at the saddle.  Look for an overhanging arête starting out of a cave. Faces west. In your face trad for its entire short life.  One bolt.  Anchors on top.

Middle of upper-tier, just west of exposed catwalk leading to "Count Dregula". The second route established on this tier in 2008, the crack took several hours to de-vegetate. The hardest pure trad route in the canyon.(?)

Start just right and 30' below overhanging/left-leaning crack. The business starts at this crack. Lie-back this overhang via increasing difficult grips and feet with small gear. At the apex of overhang a fixed nut marks the crux. Powerful lie-backing to blind jams with smears for feet. Easier crack leads to anchors.

Hopefully no more routes will be squeezed next to this great line. The amount of bolts at this crag has already jumped exponentially the past 2 years.

A unique (even for the Gally) route. Climb the bouldery slabs to the left of "Anti-Clique Crack" and beneath the horizontal roof. Place a small TCU behind a big pink ear or just climb up a few moves to multiple good horizontal gear placements. Follow steep features and good gear to the left of the roof. Two bolts protect a dynamic face crux. Gain a friction stance with the second bolt at your left hip. A friction traverse leads to the right above the lip of the roof and gains a hard to see 1/2" crack. Follow this moderate crack to the chains.

An excellent choice for a hot day, only sees a couple hours of sunlight in the morning. Great exposure and position with good views into the rest of the Gally. A nice hike too, under 60 minutes depending on fitness.

Furtherest west of climbs on upper-tier. Start behind a group of mature conifers. Work up and left through horizontal cracks. At 20' place good cams to reach a traverse left. After a 10' traverse head straight up to a large wedge. Left variant is .10b, while right is .9-. Chain anchors. This is the easiest route on the upper tier.

5.9 climbing leading to the crux overhang up high.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dregs