Destined to become classic, this is possibly the best moderate on the 'Cave Boulder'.  Start standing at a flake to the left of 'The Buttermilker' and follow the seam up to join the top-out of 'The Buttermilker'.

Power yields to a slotting adventure.  Don't gum up the holds of 'The Buttermilker' with your shoe rubber...

Lactose Intolerant

Dyno Problem

Gleaming the Cube, High Start

Shelter from the Storm

Little Forgotten

Gleaming the Cube

Pain Grain (Stand)

Moonraker

Buttermilker

Pain Grain SDS

Inner Sanctum

Cave Route

One Mule Wonder

General Mills

Frosted Flakes

Gleaming the Tube

Crimps of Wrath

The climb is located between the Dyno Problem and The Buttermilker in the cave area. It starts with a left hand on a thin in-cut horizontal crimp, and a similar vertical crimp for the right, and climbs directly upward. High step right and pull to an undercling/gaston with your left then make your way up to the slopey crimp rail and finish.

Reach up to a good starting hold.    With a long move up and slightly left gain the better hold in the middle of the overhanging wall.   From here continue with another couple of long moves on improving holds to the top.

If you can reach the starting holds from the ground, you'll not need to dyno.

High start on "Gleaming the Cube." Start with both hands at the center of the large hueco, on gritty slopers. Make a few moves on the right side of the hueco, then move back left to finish up Inner Sanctum.

Start down low on two good flakes basically at ground level. Use some unconventional body positioning to pull up into the big scoop and then finish on the obvious patina jug haul same as 'Gleaming the Cube'.

Stand start matched underclinging a large hueco feature as for

"Moonraker"

. Pull on to the wall and move up to some slopey holds on smooth quartz monzonite and utilize a variety of heelhooks, body tension, and a kneebar or two. Trend leftwards with a hard foot stab and a hard match on a hueco's rib before climbing up and topping out as for

"The Buttermilker"

.

This problem offers some relief from the classic Buttermilk death-grip crimps and revolves around compression moves on bigger holds.

Start with hands on the edge of the giant sloping scoop.  Follow the lip of the scoop up and right and then back left to finish on obvious patina jughaul.  Climbs better than it looks.

The original Pain Grain. Pull from an excellent jug rail and undercling to a high crimp and work your way over the bulge to a hidden crimp and an easy top out.

Sit start from low hueco dish is a V7 (full value).

Begin on the good undercling ~10 feet to the right of The Buttermilker. Work a good crimp before making a long move out right. Hold the swing and either finish on the jug haul or drop off once you can sit in the man-sized hueco, hands-free.

Utter perfection. This problem is a thing of pure beauty. Super hard! Start seated matched on a good sidepull and trend right through amazing slopey compression moves requiring sustained strong body tension and cool careful footwork. There are crystals available for those who prefer microcrimps to slopers.

Featured in Dosage Vol. 1 and there are now numerous ascent videos on the web.

Sit-start on holds atop the large scoop feature.  Work up and left on small holds and toe/heel hooks to the massive, sharp jug start hold of Pain Grain stand-start.  Continue up on sharp holds to the cruxy topout.  The sit is so much better than the stand, if you can do the moves just go for the sit.

Stand-start is v5

This climb offers some fun unique movement at the grade. Squat start with a high left foot(a kneebar pad may be useful!) and left hand on the high rib-like pinch as for

"3D"

. Use a fat slopey-pinch for the right hand. Pull off the ground with some difficulty and a little trickery. Move up to the higher right hand pinch, before doing a hard left hand bump to a jug. From here reach across the giant hueco and then figure out how to get into "Inner Sanctum" and finish up that problem.

This problem is for those who want to do "3D", but can't quite muster the strength to do the first move of said problem.

This is the finish to Gleaming the Cube; start with both hands on a sloper and continue up to the highest patina.

Takes the obvious line on the north side of the Cave Boulder.

Start low and make easy moves to a good hold.   Either make a long reach or make a difficult sequence up to a large sidepull/pocket.   Pull over onto the slab and finish easily.

Start low on a sharp righthand sidepull crimp.

Sit start down in the hole on jugs as for "Cave Route". Climb out of the hole and avoid the dab. Move up to the high right facing sidepull crimp used for the crux of "Cave Route", but once matched here, bust a hard move out left to a smooth glassy incut crimp. Once here figure out how to bring the right hand into a decent undercling before hitting a bad grainy hold at the lip (this is the same hold used for the first right hand move on "One Mule Wonder"). Match the lip somehow, then dyno up and left to a giant patina flake. Finish up the slab on good patina.

Begin as for Cave Route and immediately before doing the big crux move, head up and right to meet the Dyno Problem. Might be harder than V8.

Sit start with a high left hand pinch on the rib of the giant hueco, and the right hand doing a gaston-like palm-press on some smooth grains down and right. Pull off the ground with difficulty and do a hand right hand move up and right to a pinch. From here do a few fun moves on big holds to get into

"Inner Sanctum"

, then finish up that problem. Reach the top jugs then down climb and drop off. This problem offers some unique body positioning and some fun moves.

Start high on the left side of Gleaming the Cube, but instead of throwing out left to inner sanctum, first crawl through the hole, then finish up inner sanctum. Basically a meme problem with a fun photo op.

(Also, if anyone knows the actual name for this, let me know and I'll change it)

Description

Protection

Routes in Cave Boulder