Another one for you Gus Fruh regulars. A quirky, fully different lead variation right of all the moves on Gray Streak: welcome to Black Streak. Stay right and don’t touch any of the handholds from Gray Streak, including the ledge entry start. Basically, climb the black colored streak. Mind the possible PG rating if you fall on lead as you’ll have a hefty pendulum swing. I definitely dialed in the beta on toprope before attempting the lead because it’s probably not worth falling. ABOUT THE GRADING: after dialing in the beta solid, the crux from bolt 1 to bolt 2 still feels harder than any one move on Gray Streak (my friend Amy agrees) or King of Ging, but maybe no harder than Charlie Don’t Surf.  So I went with 10c (same as Gray Steak). I’m pretty sure it’s height/reach dependent though (I'm 5'8, 0 wingspan) so I can see taller people maybe thinking it’s 10a or 10b, but let me know what you think and have fun!-Vincevideo: youtube.com/watch?v=w4o9Dya…;

Black Streak

Bunion Blow Full Left

Hank's Left / B8

Hank’s Bunion

Screwed Up Trick

Circus Trick

Spank Bank

Must Be 72 Inches to Ride

Wreckage

Bunion Blow Left

Jerry's Kids

Resistance is Futile

The Borg

Hank's Direct

Crossfire

Arkansas Polio Weed

[Redacted]

Hank's B8 Extension

Gray Streak

Simulacrum

The Cube

The Boys

Hank's Right

Flip the Script

Tabula Rasa

Charlie Don't Surf

First Contact

King of Ging

Invincible

The Borg (V7/8 Variation)

Cherry Blossom

Bunion Blow

Pull the ledge below and a bit left of the route. Start on the ledge. Decent runout between bolt 3 and 4. Fairly crimpy route. Mind you're feet and you'll be in better shape. Fun, tall (for the GB) route. One tough move below bolt 4.

Left variation of Hank's B8 / Direct. Start inside the cave and move out through good holds. Head left through good jug holds and make a large move to the dihedral. Finish on the jug rail.

Start Hank’s Right and finish on Bunion Blow Left. Crux is moving through the weird left heel hook to get the left and right crimps then moving into the left crimp to finish on bunion blow left. 

Start on Tabula Rasa and finish Circus Trick 

youtube.com/watch?v=pWBIoZt…

Stand start at the right end of Chinaberry with the flake off. Climb through the obvious sloper and to the jug; then drop.

Start on the jugs of Hank's, and move into Hank's Right.  Traverse into Bunion Blow and finish the problem.

Start on Bunion Blow, move into the first undercling, but instead of traversing right into the next underclings (The Cube start holds) reach out towards the lip, then bump, then bump, then top out on the ledge.   This problem is also called "Bunion Blow Direct", probably, I think.

Start as for First Contact but rather than exiting using the large jug, eliminate it, keep shuffling up the rails, using the good edge just right of the right arete to exit.

I'm gonna keep it simple and say: Start Bunion Blow, then go left.

Jump to the ledge just to the right of the tufa. Climb straight up with cool moves through crimps. Trend to the right after the 4th bolt, do an awesome move to an undercling, then easy cruising to the anchors.

Start as for Simulacrum, but instead of exiting with the massive jug keep traversing along the rail through the arete and onto the front face of the boulder. Use the right arete to top out, but eliminate all the good holds on the trail facing side of the boulder (i.e.the jug used on Simulacrum and the big crimp used on Wreckage are off). Eliminates suck but you're only climbing this boulder because you've got nothing left to do out here anyway right??

 Even though it's an eliminate, the movement is seriously cool!

It is a standalone boulder on the left side of the trail when heading away from Kingdom of Ging toward New Wall.   

  Stand start with a left hand sloper, right hand on the arete and a toe/heel hook on the lower part of the arete.  Move to a good crimp and find a way to campus/move to the the shallow crimp in the center of the boulder.  Move delicately on the slab face to a hidden sloper and then to a small knob.  Topout is hard and delicate.

Summary: Start in the back left of the cave under Kingdom of Ging. follow obvious jug haul out towards the left to two crimps at the lip. Make the huge move from the crimps out to the triangular jutting jug. Traverse right on the ledge and then top out. 

  Details: Line begins from two jugs directly in the back, centerline of the Kingdom of Ging cave.  It moves into a jug / pocket, directly behind you (going out of the cave), into another jug to your left side.  There will be one more jug, directly center, that you will move to before you reach to a deep 2-3 finger pocket out to the left.  With some footwork, move out to the right to a 3 finger half crimp and up to the jugs above, traversing slightly up and to the right. It finishes directly under Charlie Don't Surf. 

  Good: Holds are very good for the first half of the route, but with limited feet / tricky sequencing, the first half of the route can feel awkward.   

  Bad: The deep 2-3 finger pocket.  Somewhat sharp, pulling off the pocket can shred some serious skin.  The problem is completely overhung, so figuring out your beta and moving quickly will help. 

  Crux: Moving from the pocket to the half crimp.  The key is using either a heel hook or toe hook & drop knee to crank up to the crimp.  Body tension should be your focus.

On the far right of the cave, start with hands crossed on a left slot and right sidepull. There are a few polished holds to choose from before going out to a flake-ish thing. Top out on the big ledge and ponder the massive number of people who have contributed to the polishing of the problem.

Highball slab. Bad landing. Crux at the top. What more could you ask for? See video.

This is a bolted, more difficult, variation of King of Ging. Climb to the third bolt of King of Ging, then trend left and upwards for the single bolt of Sex Dwarfs. Continue up and left to meet back up at King of Ging's fifth bolt and finish the climb.

 The side pull above King of Ging's 4th bolt is off. Using it will make this variation much easier than 11c.

Ultimate sit start to Charlie Don't Surf, all the way at the back of the cave. Climb the boulder problem known as Hank's B8 (Left) and once you top out on the pancake hold at the tufas, climb into the sport route Charlie Don't Surf. Fun linkup, 50+ feet of climbing, and despite the equivalency of V7~=5.13a, I think this route is on the verge of 5.12d/13a, but Mtn Proj doesn't let me select that slash grade; let's discuss. Try not to walk too far to the right once topping out Hank's B8 on the ledge, to try and avoid excessive resting, try to stay in the boltline of Charlie, because this linkup can be contrived, but not that contrived.

Start matched on the rail with your back against the large boulder and toe hooks on the opposite rail. Compress and shuffle up the rail, using the large jug on the side of the boulder that faces the trail in order to top out.

On the right side of the cave, start underneath on the undercling and move up to a compression side pull on the right. Figure a way up to the upper ledge from here.

Start low on a flat jug/ledge and move up left using a crack with two decent crimps and the arete. Maneuver onto the slab face by getting a high right foot on the starting ledge. Stand up and do an easy move to a jug at the top of the boulder. Top out is easy.

Same start as Hank's Direct / Left (inside the cave).  Move out on the obvious jug haul and right through 2 crimps. Make a strong move into a shallow sidepull/undercling,then make a large move up and left, outside the cave, to the rail.  Figure out how to match on the rail (get creative) and finish by traversing right directly under Charlie Don't Surf.

Start climbing Bunion Blow left, but instead of matching in the undercling in the roof go out to a miserable, nearly invisible pinch on the lip, using it to compress the roof. Walk your feet around and kick your legs up into a bat hang and use that to top out.

Same start as Cherry Blossom. Traverses the lip through the crimps past Cherry Blossom's dyno. Cross your way to the sloper edges to the side pull and track back right to the jug.

 Note: Holds have broken off the ending and the finishing sequence holds are chossy. Pull at your own risk.

This route starts just right of the beautiful tufa that runs down the middle of the Kingdom of Ging.  Pick your poison - mantle up on the ledge using a heel hook or lead in from the right.  The first bolt occurs at your feet - probably not necessary to clip as a fall at this point will put you on the ground and the second bolt is easily accessible next to the tufa.  Run past the second bolt through a thin, bulging section (10)  and up towards an alcove.  The technical crux occurs here - using a thin half moon, rock up onto a thin ledge.  If you can get this without whipping off, the rest of the route is smooth sailing.

Start sitting under the Wolf 359 boulder with one hand on each rail and one foot on each rail. Pull off the ground and move up the feature, exiting via the massive jug on the trail facing side of the boulder.

Jump to ledge and mantle up. Clip, rest and go for it.  When you reach the upper cave traverse the lip to the left and up again to access chains.

For all you Gus Fruh regulars, this is a fun/challenging TR variation off King of Ging’s anchors. THE NAME OF THE GAME IS SIMPLE: don’t touch ANY handholds that you use from Jerry’s Kids nor King of Ging.  All footholds are on. That’s it!Note the entry jump-start also doesn’t share any holdsIt’s on toprope only, as it doesn’t get close to the bolts of Jerry’s nor GingIt does share one handhold with Sex Dwarves, but when you try it out, you’ll see it’s a completely different moveTHE MOVEMENT AND VARIETY are good: jump-start, heel-hook, jugs, mantle, crimps, gaston, pocket, undercling, high foot, hip in the wall, smearing, more pockets.ABOUT THE GRADING: first off, it’s TR, so bash it all you want, but it’s still fun and challenging. I got it on my ~6th attempt, 5th day, making it harder than the Greenbelt 11b’s like Jerry’s Kids, Trash Can Man, and Hysteria which I all got on my 2nd attempt. 6 attempts is around equivalent to other Greenbelt 11c’s for me like Peewee’s, Reefer Madness, and Sunshine Boys. It can even be argued as harder than some GB 11c’s which went much quicker (within 2 attempts) for me like Fook Yu, Walk the Dog (is that really 11c?), and Cell Block, but I think 11c feels right.  What would you grade it?  Would be cool to hear your thoughts (and in Austin climbing tradition, I’ll brace myself for the verbal assault haha). -Vincevideo: youtube.com/watch?v=kL8aIDs…

It is a standalone boulder on the left side of the trail when heading away from Kingdom of Ging toward New Wall.

 This variation uses the arete and the thin sharp flake just left of center. The original line for the Borg. Eliminate. Slightly contrived since the V6 flows better. Still a worthwhile line in Austin.

A short problem with a crux power move at the end to a solid ledge. Start squatting down on good holds and move onto a series of positive slots above and traverse right to a left hand crimp and right hand horn-like hold and setup for the crux move.

Starting (left of the Cube) on the double rail, move up and along the roof crack. Traverse through the crack and link the Cube. Finish on the ledge above the Cube.

This area is remarkable for the 7' cave that runs the length of the base of wall.  More beautiful climbs on bulletproof rock.  This area, as with the rest of Gus Fruh, doesn't see a lot of traffic.  Trees keep the wall shaded for most of the day.  This happens to be one of my favorite walls along the Greenbelt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kingdom of Ging