This is located close to the Island, but not on the Island proper. 

  No specific crux .. just a classic boulder problem. The name comes from “ORGATOR”, carved on the backside of the boulder (facing the Main Wall).

The Orgator

Holding Space

Nipple Tick

Ape Traverse

Scarpa

Phantom Fifth

Double O

The Arete

Sandbox Arete

Sandbox Direct

Runnin’ Laps

Island Access Traverse

Unknown

[Redacted]

Sandy Ledges

Sandbox Skyline Traverse

Dunes

Start left of Orgator just to the right of the arete. Traverse to the right before moving up on crimps and a finger pocket to move back left to the sloping part of the arete. From there move up the face using the arete on the left and run out on top. Recommended to have at least two crash pads (probably should have a third) and a spotter. Especially on the run out, protection is needed on both sides of the arete.

Perfect hand jams take you up to a ledge. Traverse left and mantle over a block to finish. 

Climb up to a left facing corner, up to the roof. Traverse left, cutting your feet loose if you like, which is where the route get it’s name. Finish in the small slot at the top.

Start about 5’ right of The Arete. Start on easier ground to a hard crux just left of the left most vertical crack on Sandy Ledges. Steeper rock takes you to the top.

Pull the bulge, walk it up, pull multiple roofs. :) Multiple variations.

Climb the arete to a crux midway up the route. Finish on steeper terrain at the top.   Watch your backside if your spittin' off .. there is a large tree there.

Straddle the arete all the way to the finish horn using pockets and edges.  Crux revolves around a small sidepull/pocket on the left side of the arete.  Descend off to the left.

Start on large sidepull in the middle of the wall.  Line is straight up to the right most portion of the mid-wall ledge system.  Traverse left along the ledge around the corner to descend.  Crux move is the last lunge to the jugs on the ledge off of two crimps with high feet.

Getting up onto and into the second slabby part, was a little rounded down, proved to be a little slippery and not easy at times to find a hand hold.  In the flat face in the mid section, delicate mono finger pockets and balanced moves gains. Fun running the side crack to the roof. Finding a decent hooked traverse along the roof, down climbing into the short left crack, was an easy enough down. Run it back. Have fun!

Cruxy turning corners,  or reaching past blankish sections... NBD

This isn't a route per se and found often wet. Falling at any point is not advisable.This is one of the two places to ascend the island.At first there was one bolt intended for practice hauling with 3-to-1 or 5-to-1 pulley. Presently there are two bolts which confuse the uninformed. There isn't a third or a bolt system up there. Climbing with draws can make it safer but there's no anchor. Using extending draws will greatly reduce rope drag though the result is negligible in zero-sum games when you still crater.Start on the face right of the prominent and wet crack. Follow the crack up and left going through a wet spot. Traverse left to clip another pin. Continue left again at the obvious point to avoid climbing the bulge. Continue up to where a large camalot (#4-#5) may help reduce the "R/X" factor of this top section. Once finished, there are options available for rappelling back to the ground.

Climb The Arete until you are able to step out onto the overhanging face left. Pinch and pull on pockets up and right until you reach the split. Pump through the roof to finish at the anchor shown. 5 pull-ups on the final hold. 

Well named. Most of the holds have sand on them, still overall, a fun route. There are three variations, each following one of the three vertical cracks about 1/2 way up the route. Follow steeper rock to the top. 

  PG13 because rock falling isn't so healthy for your belay.

Start on pockets mostly to the right of the wall.  Ascend directly to the high ledge.  Traverse the full length to the left.

A Hinckley Classic. Start on slab, move slightly right to a face, then slightly back left through an overhanging face ending at the top.

There are a two ways to get to the top of the island to set up your ropes.

 The easiest is soloing the backside of the island, I assisted putting a bolt in the rock at the crux in 2002. It can be wet for several days/weeks after a rain.

 A dryer, safer and more difficult alternative is soloing the start of Double O, traversing right after the bulge and trending right. The crux is pulling the first bulge. Once you climb over the bulge, it becomes easier. This passage up is not done nearly as often as the back ramp.

 Routes are listed in order (from left to right) starting with The Arete and going around the island to Island Access.

 The Downside of the Island or The Sandbox Area has many quality boulder problems. Only a few were listed here.

 There are trees up top of the island, one has chains place around it in 2010. There are others but the emphasis of sustainability ought to be used with the chains on the tree. Much vegetation has disappeared from the area and the top of the island is no exception.

 10 years ago there were thistles covering most of the Whipps / Hickley area. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Island