An interesting crack/face climb. There is a 10 variation the goes left and up the face near the beginning of the roof crack (where the large flake ends), you should be able to see a couple bolts.

Over Under Sideways Down

Sugar

Piranha

Picnic

Shake n Flake

Rabbit Rodeo

Rockers

Turtle Lasso

Crackalicious

The name says it all, it's a popular climb for a reason.

Adventure style climb through sharp plants. Cruxes are at the start (for shorter climbers) and near the top.

Crux is after the large ledge to the smaller ledge. There's a bush in the way that makes the grade seem a lot more difficult.

Nice 5.7 with a bonus.6 gluein bolts to sport anchors with  7th bolt to the right of the anchors to allow the leader to bring up the second and enjoy a roomy picnic alcove.Interesting features, huge holds on good rock.

Some chirping within the flake that might make the climb a little harder if you have a fear of bats. There are some crimps, sidepulls off the flake, and pumpy moves towards the end, which makes it a fun route with a variety of moves. Probably a 10-, but listed as a 10+ in the route map.

Start on the slab skirt and clip the belayers bolt shared with Turtle Lasso to the left. Move towards the undercut/cave feature for some good underclings to clip the first bolt on the face. Crux one is pulling up on sharp small pockets to the right of the first face bolt, with marginal feet. Another good pocket allows for clipping the second bolt. A bit of a run out with committing feet leads to a jug for clipping the third bolt. Pull some easier slab moves and move up towards the left for the last bolt. Pull the ledge for the anchors (shared with Turtle Lasso).

Crux is getting past the bulge, I'd recommend going left.

Start on the slab skirt and clip the belayers bolt. Make your way on to a questionable flake for the second bolt. Good, slightly hidden pockets on slab make up the remaining bolts. Move right through the small crack and go up over the ledge for the chains. 

Some great moderate to difficult climbs of a decent length.Nice shady wall!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Painted Canyon Sector