The first pitch is the crux.  Climb a short ramp to a bolt (sometimes the hanger is missing, if it is, use a wire).  Using hand-placed pins or tricams, ascend to a very short 5.8 lieback to another bolt.  From here follow incipient cracks up on cams and tricams to a drilled pin, an old bolt, and the anchor directly under a small roof.  For the second pitch, traverse left on rivets, then up on small nuts to another anchor.  For the third pitch, follow old bolts/drilled pins up and slightly left to join Triple Exposure just before the summit notch.  Two double-rope rappels to the ground.

The Inferno

Anaconda

Ryan's Inferno

North End Chimney

Triple Exposure

All of the rock at the bottom of the climb is rotten, so you need to scamper up the ramp to the base of the rock face. (That said, with good luck, the lower section might clean up and yield something climbable....)

Follow the two bolts left to a big move to the sloping ledge. Traverse right until you can stand up and clip from a bucket.  From there on, stay in the crack until you reach the anchors just under the roof.

As well as a lower start, this climb could also have potential to be continued from the first anchor,

Triple Exposure

-style.

Ryan's Inferno needs more ascents to consolidate the grade as the first ascensionist doesn't have a clue.

This routes climbs the obvious crack system in a vague corner on the NNW end.  Most parties climb the first 60 feet at easy 5.10, but the 20 foot extension is excellent climbing.  Fixed anchors for both. The second pitch looks heinous, a pigeon-shit encrusted slot with good  cracks in the back.

This has sandy chimney climbing up the super obvious northern chimney.

Start with unprotected, moderate climbing up the start of

Triple Exposure

for 40 feet until

Triple Exposure

cuts right and this route goes left. Follow loose climbing past some drilled angles and a piece of rebar into the chimney. The second pitch follows a sandy chimney with potholes to a sling.

Rap

Triple Exposure

.

From the main parking lot, the North End Towers rise directly above.  Triple Exposure splits the main tower's north face, mostly just left of center.  Scramble up the first 30-40 feet to the beginning of a bolt ladder.  Don't clip all of them if freeing it, it will cause way too much rope drag.  This pitch goes at 5.11d.  The thin crack of the second pitch goes at 5.12c/d.  The third pitch traverses left, then up through the small, muddy chimney if aiding on bolts/drilled pins.  If freeing the third pitch, follow the dihedral (5.10d) straight up, then traverse left (5.11b) when it ends.  From here, you can either make an anchor or run it to the summit.  Go up a few bolts, then traverse right (5.11c), then climb up through the prominent notch to the summit anchor.  Two double-rope rappels land you on the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in North Face / North End