On the patio  left and left of Holly Roller, look for the arete ramp running diagonally right into the finish with Holly Roller. Sit start low on the shallow rounded slopey section low on the ramp. Work up and right with finger buckets and shallow crimps, all the way right to top out as per Holy Roller.

Straight to Hell

Wing and a Prayer

Holy Roller

If I could give this line 5 stars I would. This singular boulder problem is probably the most interesting and eye-catching line I've climbed.

 Sit start under the wild looking "wing" overhang (looks like an eagle’s beak, a witch’s nose, a fin, a wing, what have you) on a hollow but sturdy flake jug matched.

 Off the start, move up past 14 or so pinch and compression moves along the right side of the boulder. Pinch your way up until you can reach out with your left hand to the wide side-pull pinch to compress again.

 Lock off and get to the iron rail (on the face opposite the trail). Grab the left crimp and blast up to the top.

 Top out and sit on top of the feature.

 Getting down is an adventure right now. My exit strategy was jumping off the boulder onto pads on the patio. Another is negotiating over to the tree that touches the tip of the "wing" and fireman pole down. The down-climb still needs to be cleaned.

Its hard to overstate how good this thing is. Classic is a good start.

 Stand in front of the start to "Wing & A Prayer" and look to the left side of the large blade feature for the low crack/seam that runs horizontal, and the cut-out jug to the right of the arete corner. Left hand starts in the seam, right hand on the inner jug.

 This line climbs up the face beside the patio block to the long, huge jug crack horizontal. It then trends left (climbers left) over the patio, and left more to the next arete-corner feature to the juggy point at the aretes apex.

 Start low and work into the horizontal jug. Move left into the next jug flake to get over the patio. Continue left through the thinner crack to toss to the flat rail high and left. Work across the rail to the flat arete edge. Toss to the horn and find the juggy top lip further left to aid in topping out.

 You will need to hop down off the boulder at that point. There is no walk off.

A dream boulder. One in a million. This block is massive and proud.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Prayer Boulder