Another stemming Gem on the Molar. Takes good, but small gear for the lead.

 The route starts with a short section of cruxy stemming with small pro in the corner. The corner opens to fingers and then thin hands out a sweet bulge (physical!) to a stance on a small ledge. It ain’t over yet! climb the final shallow dihedral and then exit on easier cracks to the top.

Gold Crown

Zygomatic Arch

Lichen Lightening

Remsen Street

It’s the eye-catching right-arching seam.  From a small ledge at the top of a short but clean left-facing corner, climb up and left until you reach the start of the crack/seam. Make moves into the seam, and then follow this to the top. Technical laybacking on a cool feature with a tenuous crux at the top.  Gear is very sparse, even the directionals are just OK. 

Climb the face and crack to roof, pull over roof and into left leaning crack, which leads to splitter lightening bolt crack to the top.

I guess maybe it’s been done before, but most likely not .

Start in the chimney immediately right of the Novocaine corner. Climb this (hand crack inside) until you see a finger crack on the right. Reach for this/step across and climb it out right until you’re on top. Quality pitch with interesting climbing.

Cliff to the (climbers) right of Granite Mountain’s main cliff. Looks like a molar. Not affected by seasonal closures.  Not much recorded information on this crag, although there has been some development/exploration in the past. If anyone has any more info on this area, give me a shout.

 Although small, the rock Is excellent- as good as anything at the Mtn. Not many established climbs and it is very rarely visited due to the serious Shwacking approach. However, there are some incredible gems, including some hardman/woman projects that could very well be some of the most appealing pitches on Granite mountain and certainly the hardest.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Molar