Geologic poetry in motion.  Start with a daunting lunge to a pocket. Follow a tedious traverse and execute a stylish mantle into another crystal pocket. Ascend dramatic crimps to a righteous finishing dyno.

Custodians of the Useless

Mother North

Mexican Radio

Lunar Strain

Cosmic Dancer

Western Granite Social Club

Work left, onto an obvious foot rail. Right hand undercling. (Clip) FIRE!   ( this is the crux.. gym like…) Obvious right hand.. jump and match with a bolt at your face. Right foot high and flex up into a high right. Left foot to the “fire” hold… clip out left and ascend into a nice moderate finger crack.

The opening moves to the crack will test your balance and body control.

Climb a ramp on jugs under an over hang, place a 0.3 and ease left through a wide under cling. Layback past two bolts and enter a finger crack. (crux) These moves over lap the adjacent route slightly. Mind your feet as you enter an excellent moderate dog legging series of crack systems. Aim for another singular bolt high on the face and off to the anchors. The crack is moderate but sustains a 10a tempo throughout.

Easy jugs or cracks into a mini fridge cutout. Lay it back through bolts into a tricky side step around or through a scoop.

Follow dykes for feet and hands right then cut left on crimps and rocker feet making easy/fun right/left bounces following bolts. Enjoy the views from this secluded granite romp.

Very generous bolting on unique rock

This gorgeous and improbable line follows an excellent corner and finger crack to the base of a soaring, overhung arete. Technical, delicate climbing using a striking quartz dike leads to wild moves around  the arete and a distinct crux  on a weird undercling and crimps with poor feet. Bouldery and pumpy!

Might be easier for the tall who can use a good foot and reach to the good holds. If you have less than 5’11” vert or span, the crux may end up being rather fucking difficult.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wall of Voodoo