A mild start leads to a steep, sequential, and thin crux. Touchy climbing past a few more bolts busts over a small lip to the anchors.

Nice edges and a series of big flakes are the lure of this climb.

Aesthetic and fun.

The Beginning

Nuetrino Drizzle

Jumping to Conclusions

Dark Energy

Flirting With Mutants

The Stem From Heck

Mission Impossible

What Was I Thinking

The 5 AM Lookouts

Flying off the Handle

Your Problem

Vacuum Genesis

The Fella's

New Age Disciples

Welcome to Black Rocks

S.T.D.

Windmill

Critical Mass

F.Y.M.

Polluting the Gene Pool

Missionary Position

Hippy's Wrath

Event Horizon

Indifference

Entropy

Petrophyte

Extinction

Split Decisions

Slap Happy

Atlantis

Run Bunny, Run

Recommended stick clip for bouldery direct start on thin positive holds (fun!). Pull onto the face and pad up the slab to a very square pocket/hole at the second bolt. Pocketed face climbing leads to the anchors.

Having actually seen neutrino drizzle, i can say it looks nothing like this route.

Short and fun, this line isn't too hard to figure out. Fairly straight foward,

Neutrino Drizzle

is good pulling on good rock! A mid-route crux gives this route a nice flow.  Give it a hurl~!

Long and sustained for the area, Jumping to Conclusions offers-up a good variety fun moves and testing top out. I vote: Dyno off the crips.

Climb the crumbly blocks to a blunt arete, and then onto the face. The crimpy and very technical crux is at the second bolt, but you can clip pretty easily before you try to pull the bulge on the sharp edges. It felt well protected.

Climb straight up and then make a difficult traverse left to gain the 2nd bolt (hard to clip, crux).  From here, go straight up aiming for positive holds on the black face above.  This route felt hard for the grade.   I assume a few key holds may have been damaged from the rockfall on the neighboring Ginsu.   Nice climb though!

Climb the nice hand-jam crack up to the dihedral.  From here, climb the right crack that turns into a skinny offwidth at the top (if you go left it looks as though you're climbing a finger crack).  Shady wall is great for when it gets hot in St. George.

Thin low angle climb.  Quite techy with interesting sequences throughout.

Starts on an overhang with a harder vertical section above.

A fun climb up blocky edges with a bunch of footwork options, including backstepping moves to a dihedral to the left of the route.

Amazing basalt climbing through very technical crimps pockets slopers and side pulls. Great crimper crux to chains!

Climb up somewhat dirty and blocky rock to reach a  stance at the overhanging crack bulge.  The crux is getting from bolt 1 to 2 using the crack and a shallow pocket.  From here, its pretty cruiser, but very fun face climbing with positive holds throughout.

Start on Neutrino Drizzle, then break right at the second bolt following the seam toward the arete.

Consistent 5.9 climbing up the 3 dimensional arete. Good holds, decent feet. A nice variety of moves.

Tricky crimpy pocket holds up a face to a ledge roughly about 20-25ft up, then finish the route on another small face above (10 more feet).

A good welcome to black rocks indeed, this route is a nice way to get started and a nice intro to whats in store for you while visiting. One of the easier routes at the grade,

Welcome to Black Rocks

won't blow a finger or your confidence.

A low crux with a mellow finish makes this the feel good route of the wall. A difficult start through a bulge and big blocky edges gets things moving. Steepening climbing with a few well placed, but shallow edges help maintain the flow.

I'm not sure why I'm adding this route.  It's really not worth doing.  Maybe to help you find other routes at Black Rocks?  Either way; this climb starts by climbing an easy and big block (6ft tall from ground?).  Belay from below or on top of the big rock to first bolt.  Then proceed to climb the small face to another ledge.  Simply stand to clip anchors.

Great route, starts right below the anchor to 5 am lookouts. Some ez climbing to a little roof problem to some vertical techy climbing. Good route.

A steep and tense climb over big pockets and sharp edges. Short and stout, a subtle right leaning traverse across the face gains the anchors. A rather homogeneous

Black Rocks

route, but a good tick if you're in the area or want "one more for the road".

F.Y.M. starts in a corner with a jagged boulder then trends left over a small bulge. The holds through the bulge crux are not as good as they look from below. A tricky leftward shuffle gets you to the final bolt. Pull onto the shelf and make a short move in order to clip the anchors.

Awkward, odd, and wandering climbing on the right side of a blunt arete leads to steeper, trickier terrain. While the crux of this route may be considered down low, the true crux may be clipping the anchor.

Hair raising !

I entered this route to see if anyone knows what it is.   It's not in the Goss book, but looks interesting.  Low angle start with large moves between positive holds.  Pull small roof on left and up pocketed and featured face.

Although the Goss guide gives this no stars, it has a few good moves and may serve as a good warm up for some of the harder routes down the line.  The crux starts right off the ground using a giant flake stuck in the ground to get started.  A few small crimps lead to great pockets. The only bummer is the ledge that breaks up the route.

One to remember...

Very much all of the grade, this heady little number will leave you feeling "heavy" at its crux.

Climb a stunning and sharp arete using pockets, breaks, and small, thin edges. Gain the crux at the mid-point, and battle your senses. Finish on seemingly easier terrain.

Really easy climbing leads to a generous rest ledge.  This is trad climbing for people on a 6 quickdraw budget.  This route doesn't need bolts at all.  The crack in the corner hosts ample protection opportunities and wrist jams for rests (like you need to rest on a 35 foot climb).  I suppose this was given a 5.9 rating for the layaways on the arete before the anchors.  My guess is that this was intended to be a "face only" climb, whatever that is supposed to mean.  But I digress, this is good for a warm up and fun for the family to toprope.

Start out on the left side of the face. A lack of good right feet will push you a bit left at the start. Move back right soon as the climbing gets pretty straightforward. The grade eases off a bit as you near the top where there is a great clipping stance for the two bolt anchors.

This route ascends the right facing dihedral to the right of "Event Horizon."  The crux is getting to the first placement.  As you climb this you will find that there are great stances every time that you feel that you need to place gear. It's great!

(There was chalk all over this crack so if you know who climbed it first or the original name please let me know and I'll make the appropriate changes.)

This is located at the far left end of the shady side. I starts just right of a huge detached block and follows four bolts up to the anchors.  Thin crimps and balancy moves for a beginner.

Shares the first two bolts of 5am Lookouts then veers rightward.

Start by laybacking to reach out left to reach the beginning of the arete. Crux is gaining the 3rd bolt.  Very balancy.  Blowing the moves to reach the 3rd bolt could result in a crappy awkward fall.  Nice bouldery moves at the beginning lead to fun face climbing.   This route is easily top roped by climbing Flirting with the Mutants, 5.11b to the right.

This is a really weird line that starts on the right face of an inside corner that tops out on a ledge.  Once you're finished resting on the ledge (it is such a long climb) proceed to the crux bulge that ends at the anchor ledge.  The real crux is routefinding, rather, figuring out why this was bolted in the first place.  Nevertheless, this makes for a decent warm-up, and is fun for the family to top-rope.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shady Side