Climb the face just right of The Prow. Crux is after the 3rd bolt. For full value, avoid using the crack or face to its right.

The Face

Forest's Face

Sunburned

Stem It Black

Augustin's Flake

Pockets

Po'Pay's Revolt

The Prow

Piton Crack

Three's a Crowd

Monkeywrenchin' Momma

No. 1 G

Cactus Karma

Start on detatched flake to palm-sized sloper. Bust left to big sidepull and move back middle to crux lone-finger pocket and balancey moves up to pockets. 

View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag left end.  Bolted lines include (L-R) The Prow, Pockets, Mama, Popay's Revolt

Forest's Face heads up and right on big blocks to reach a steeper crack (crux) at the top. 

  Not bad, in an area with few climbs at this grade.

Climbs the south face of The Prow formation. Start five feet left of The Prow and climb corner to 2nd bolt, then follow up nice red face.

'Stem It Black' is the obvious black corner toward the left side of Stagecoach Wall.  The rock is crumbly off the ground, but improves somewhat higher up.   As suggested, good stemming the whole way.

Stem up the right-facing corner with the finger crack, or climb the flake to the right.  Tall people can stem between these two features.  The difficulty eases as the cracks widen up high.   You can climb only the left crack, or only the flake crack to make for more difficult challenges.

Various pockets in good stone to thin overhanging finish

The bottom has a sporty move to the second bolt but the crux is thin edges to and above the 4th bolt.  (You can avoid this by climbing wide to right after clipping 3rd bolt. Po'Pay or Pope' was from Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo and planned the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 while in Taos pueblo, the only time the Spanish were driven from an entire region of the New World.  They returned with a vengeance 12 years later.

Climb up to the rectangular slot, clip the pins and sort out how to bring your feet up in order to reach the next good horizontal hold.  Easier from here to the top.

Start on Augustin's and move left after 1st bolt. Continue up passing three more bolts to Piton Crack's anchor.A #3 C4 can be placed near the top to protect the runout to the anchors

Bouldery start to undercling then mantle to small ledge.  Finish on pocketed face.

#1 G, the leftmost sport climb on Stagecoach Wall, makes for a good first lead with fun moves off horizontal jugs and favorably spaced bolts.

Cactus Karma takes on a fun and improbable steep hand crack near the right side of Stagecoach Wall.  Pulling through the crux is a great way to learn jams.  Difficulty eases near the top.   One of the best easier climbs on the cliff.

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande.  Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes.  Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled. 

  See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area. 

  The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top.  Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes).  Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old Stagecoach Road