I'd rate this as a 3-star climb because it's a really fine example of a pure friction slab. Don't waste any time looking for holds, just smear and go- it's better if you don't think about it too long! First bolt is a pretty safe clip, then puzzle out the moves left. This is the crux of the route and it takes place below the first bolt. Higher up it'll get quite sporty, but always plenty of bolts to keep you off the ledge. An intermediate (2-bolt) anchor has been added at the ledge after the first two bolts.

Domestic Bliss

Mining For Gold

White Streak

Granola Flake

No Boom-Boom Tonight

Crispy Flake

Cutting Teeth

Ranchstyle

Snag Crack

Sunday Morning Sidewalk

Blue Cheese

B.S.

Cheerios

Domestic Principles

An athletic layback, then get your pro (sling recommended on the flake). There is a good hold to help you mantle the flake. Now some strenuous face climbing leads to a fine slab. Intermediate anchor at the ledge. Recommend belaying here, the upper slab is super techy and a bit harder than what lies below. This is a really fun and varied route!

Mining for Gold follows a fun line of features to the top of Domestic Dome.

P1: Climb the large flake up to a small bolted ledge. A couple of slab moves take you to a left leaning crack and on to another small ledge. Follow a series of small cracks and edges (5.7) to the third ledge with the anchor. 70', 2 bolts, chain anchors.

P2: Climb a few fun face moves to a gradually rising horizontal hand/finger crack. The crack thins out as you finish on slab (5.7) to anchors. 40', Small to large gear, Chain anchors

Thin face climb. Stem from tree to first bolt for 5.9 or direct for 5.10.

Lieback and smear up a cool hollow flake feature. Careful where you place pro, especially smaller pieces.

This route starts out with a good boulder problem on crappy feet. If bouldering isn't your thing, it's pretty easy to rig a short stick clip to the first bolt. There is some cruxy smearing next, then place a piece behind the the block and a few more in a right-facing flake. It's a fun route and worth a go.

Route to the right of Cutting Teeth that follows a bolted line to the right side of the big tree in the middle of wall.

Well bolted, slab climb up to a good ledge where the mid route rap station is. Lay back a short corner crack to a small roof.  Continue into more slab climbing up to a nice hand rail flake to the anchors.

There are no bolts once you get to the flake up high.  You can place gear or run it out if you are comfortable with about 30ft of low angle 5.4ish to the anchor.

Also, when lowering, make sure to keep your rope out of the flake to minimize rope drag.

Tall slab climb with 5.8 moves in the first half leading to a thin 5.9 face above.

Long bolted slab with knobby holds. Thins out a bit and steepens slightly toward the top.

Above B.S., you trend right up knobs plugging gear. Then make a slab traverse right clipping one bolt across the slab. Get to a wide crack, laybacking a few moves before getting into the wide crack which turns into great thin hands above.

Stiffer than other climbs of the grade I've done in the area. Not recommended for those pushing into the grade, harder to protect opening layback from a fall to the slab.

Bolted face climb right of Blue Cheese. Undercling to get around or over the small roof/flake separating the upper/right face. One hard move above the third bolt reaches the top.

Step onto face from the top of the wide flake. Decent feet and some friction to the top.

A nice easy crack leads in to some "scritchy slab" as the book puts it. The slab portion now has two bolts, guide book is not correct. Newer bolts at anchor.

Route gets you to Connie's Crack, Snag Crack and Underachiever.

Pretty good clip-up, considering how short it is. Fun movement and well protected crux.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Domestic Dome