Climb the gully to the right of Why Must I Cry to shared top anchors.

Night Owl

Rude Boy

Mean Street

Grab n' Go

Helm's Deep

Why Must I Cry

Variety

Leisure Time

Redhorn Gate

House of Pain

Really solid feet and wide ledges make for a route that's not terribly physically demanding, but what it lacks in pump-factor it makes up for with some interesting technical moves above bulges.

The first crux comes just above the third bolt as you move through a notch in a bulge. There are decent holds here if you fish for them.

The second crux is just below the anchors, where you're faced with an entirely blank looking bulge. You can go left here into the crack or for a more unique experience go straight up and mantle the bulge. I don't want to give it away, but it's not hard if you can find the right positioning.

Ascend ledges to the left of a crack system and follow it up over a bulge to a widening crack. Find the anchor up top in the blocks.

First pitch goes at 5.8ish, Second pitch goes at 5.10b/c. First pitch ends at a giant ledge and the second pitch is all business as soon as you leave the ledge. Watch out for the block above the first bolt on the second pitch, it wiggles a little, but would not dislodge after a significant effort with rock hammers and pry bars. You do not need to touch it to do this climb.

This is a fun new route, sandwiched between House of Pain (5.11a) and Redhorn Gate (5.8). It shares the House of Pain anchors. Its fairly sustained on the upper half, which might make the 5.10c rating feel harder if you don't have a lot of endurance.

Start under the roof on the right side below the first bolt. Uses a combination of underclings, a couple jugs, and a strenuous and crimpy crux. Follow the bolt line straight up. If you try to venture too far left or right, you will end up getting into awkward moves that will make the route harder.

Pretty sustained, somewhat pumpy and not terribly technical, this route is a good way to get the blood flowing and get warmed up for the rest of your day.

The classic way to start this route is to simply step out over the gap from the comfortable belay ledge to the wall and start climbing, but if you screw it up you'll fall on the horrible impaling tree stump six feet down. If that seems too sketchy you can always start to the left and traverse to the first bolt.

If I had to pick out a crux I'd say it's between the second and third bolts, but frankly it's all pretty similar. Good rail-pulls the whole way up and a very slight overhang make for a solid, sustained route.

The deep corner that shares the start with its neighbor House of Pain. This is a steep hands-to-offwidth crack and corner system which offers a variety of climbing, many edges and good feet. The offwidth also has good edges and can be easily face climbed with little to no offwidth technique. It takes protection very well and has its own 2 bolt top anchor.

Ascend the shallow corner system past a small roof. Rap from a tree at the top of the route.

It tends to be dirty but if cleaned up would make a fun route.

Face moves in to a dirty crack system.  Quite full of roots and dirt when we climbed it.

Fairly easy climbing up to the crux: some bouldery moves to get around the roof. Mind your clipping stances as you do this--you really don't want to have to clip midway through the crux if you can avoid it.

Above the roof is a good rest followed by some much easier climbing to the anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in (2) Middle Earth