P1: ~180 feet, wide hands to an OW to a chimney. Climb through a roof to a narrowing crack. Move left through a short, crumbly traverse and a short bit later to a stance. Cruise up the perfect #4 splitter for 30 feet into the chimney. Fifty feet later step left to a luxurious ledge and belay.

P2:  ~70 feet. Pull past giant death boulders and into the chimney. Go up the obvious chimney to the summit. Build a belay off giant boulders on top.

Hell Ain't Half Full

Split Decision

This is in Kodel's Canyon.  This can be a bit challenging to find.  This is west of Fruita Canyon and west of the West end of Rim Rock Drive.  From Desert Rock III, E. Bjornstad writes "Exit 19 off I-70, go south, drive across the Colorado River, turn right on King's View Dr.  At the turn, a sign reads "Horse Thief Canyon State Wildlife Area."  Approximately 0.5 mi take the first left turn, dirt road.  Here there is a change.  Go to the fenced limit.  Park.  Apparently, one used to be able to drive all the way to the canyon mouth.  Hike up the canyon 45-60 minutes, starting in the wash.  This is beautiful country.  There is a window in the rock high and right from you.  You will have to cross a drainage or two along the way.  The Little Bighorn Pinnacle makes a good visual landmark.  Behind this pinnacle on the right lies the buttress with Split Decision.

Find a crack angling to the top of the buttress.  This is sandy, you may consider protective eyewear.  I just had sunglasses and received bilateral corneal abrasions on this climb.

Pitch 1: lieback a flake, rest, find a thin crack through a roof (allegedly the 1st pitch crux).  Move right past 1 bolt (seemed intimidating) and then up past 3 pins and up to a semi-hanging belay in a pod of sorts.  #1 1/2, 2 #2 Friends useful for belay.

Pitch 2: follow crack up to a steep bit.  Lieback strenuously to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.  (This bit seemed hard for 10a).

Pitch 3: follow crack past a pin and face climb past 3 drilled pins.  Note, some of the holds on this pitch may have broken off, which may have changed the rating.

Rap the route.  From the top of the 2nd pitch, you can rap to the ground with 60m ropes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kodel's Canyon