Bom Bay

Organic Farm

Easy Gully

Banana Peel

Prescott Grain and Feed

Kiss of Death

Right Twin Crack

Left Twin Crack

Last Chance

Gambit

Sandbox

Dulfer

Redpoint Mania

The Chute

Pinnacle

Siege

Stairway to Heaven

Hustler

Rolling Stone

Savage Amusement

Fred

Climb up Right Twin Crack, then move up right along seams past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Climb the crack out of the gully, head up and right across slabs staying on the left side of the thumb, don't miss the thread through, and belay off mid size cams.

Stem, claw and gruntscramble (hey, Faulkner did it, why not I?) up broken, somewhat polished rock. Top out either by continuing straight up a short, more vertical (harder) section or traverse R and exit as for Organic Farm. You can exit by walking off straight-ahead, passing Scramble (see "The Pinnacle Area") and rejoining the "N Central Gully" trail or scrambling down "The Corridor, aka "The Descent Gully" (quicker).

Scramble onto a big ledge below a left-facing dihedral. Edge up a blunt arete past 4 bolts. Then follow cracks up right to a ledge with 2-Bolt belay/rappel anchors.

This is a fun, mostly bolt protected route, that leads up to a bolted rappel anchor.  It begins about 40 feet to the right of Sandbox.  Climb up the 5.4 chimney behind the right side of the 40 foot tall boulder, and continue in the large left facing corner past some small gear and 3 or 4 bolts to the anchor.  Getting to the first bolt is about 5.9, and most people will want to put a piece or two in.  The crux is climbing past the next couple bolts.  Great climbing through this section, and well protected.  Might feel more like 10b the first time you lead it.

Solid jams. Climb up blocks up left to the right-hand crack of the twin cracks in the pillar. Follow up through hands to off-width crack.

Begin below the pillar to the left, scramble/climb horizontal crack to the base of the left-hand crack (of two parallel cracks). Jam 20' then to a small ledge/alcove atop a pillar, not the very top however.

This is the climb next to Gambit.  2 pitches.  Pitch 1.  Climb a shallow crack up a left facing corner.  Exit the crack to the right and move across and up a series of flakes.  Belay at the base of a corner below Two Tier Tower.  Pitch 2.  Jam up a short,pumpy crack to the ledge at the right of Two Tier Tower.  The move across after the crack on the first pitch is very committing for a 5.8 leader.

3 pitches.  On the main wall right of the gully and below the Two Tier Tower.  Pitch 1.  Climb a wide, flared crack for 35 feet to a sloping ramp. Belay off a tree.  Pitch 2.  Work up corners and ledges right to a two bolt belay.  Pitch 3.  Face climb up past a bolt.  Follow a groove up and right to a two bolt anchor.  This route is hard to see where it ends up from the ground.  Make sure you know where you are headed to.  This route crossed several other routes up top.

A route that's not in any climbing book.  

  P1: Start just left of the cave and head up to a small ledge, then up a flaring crack with hardly any good holds and two rusty pitons as your only protection. Not very protectable. Two bolts on top for belaying. 

  P2: An alpine style climb with a tricky start up and over an exposed rock. Continue to north wall with a bolt to clip, then head east to a downward flake.

cruise up the corner and exit right, go left up the bolts for a harder outing.

Climb past 2 Bolts on face, on the outside of a pillar to a chain anchor.

Pitch one: really fun shallow 5.8 chimney protected by 2 pins, to a two bolt anchor. Pitch two Step left off of the ledge and follow five bolts to a two bolt anchor, with some optional small gear.

Begin right of Chute below a left-facing corner and a finger pillar. Climb the corner (5.9) to the top of the pillar. Climb the headwall above to a bolt, then work left past another bolt (5.11a) into a left-facing corner. Follow to a belay on the shoulder above or continue to a 2-Bolt belay/rappel anchor.

Great, classic, historic route.  I believe a R rating is now applicable do to the spacing and unreliability of the pins on pitch one. Hard for 10b, but an amazing route.  first 5.10 in Prescott.  Pitch 2 is a splitter finger to hand to offwitdth with lots of holds, to final runout to the anchors.  Starts in a groove off of a ledge on the left side of the cliff, below the obvious licheny crack up top.

An exposed face route to the top of the left formation. Move up right from the ledge that Savage Amusement, Banana Peel, and Rolling Stone finish at to a bolt then work up left to a sloping stance. Edge up face past 3 bolts to summit.

Hustler is a great route that combines vertical crack climbing with a very unique and cool ridge traverse. It doesn't seem to get climbed too often, so the rock is a bit gritty. Start in the chimney behind the 40 foot block that leans against the wall. (same start as for "Kiss of Death") After about 30 vertical feet in the chimney, traverse right about 30 feet to the base of an obvious hands to fists vertical crack. Possible belay here. Climb the vertical crack up to the beefy anchor bolts at the top of "Kiss of Death". The crack is physical and protects well. Good training for Granite Mountain! Rappel from the anchor bolts, or, continue across the adventurous and exciting ridge. The ridge is 5.6 or 5.7. Climb up, down, and around several little towers. This can be one long pitch or 2 shorter ones. You will encounter enough bolts and gear placements to make the ridge safe, though it will still feel exciting. Some traditional, or alpine, climbing sense is useful on the ridge. Generally speaking, follow the ridge north for about 120 feet, and eventually easier climbing leads you to the top of the cliff in the vicinity of the anchor bolts of the route Stairway to Heaven.

Begin below the "nose" of the Left-facing dihedral. Climb a thin crack to the base of the overhang. Move up left to a fixed Piton. Climb up and go right to a bolt. Continue up past 2 Bolts along a thin, left-facing corner. Climb up to easier rock to a 2-Bolt belay/rappel anchor on a ledge.

Scramble up right onto a big ledge below a left-facing dihedral. Climb the steep face left of the dihedral past 2 Bolts and 2 fixed Pitons. Exit right at the top and climb easy cracks up right to a 2-Bolt belay on a ledge.

If you are looking for harder trad lines in the Prescott area you have plenty of options, but don't miss out on this Joshua Tree like finger system. With sweet positioning, good gear, and quality movement, this easily accessed line is a true Prescott classic. Makes for an easy project for aspiring tradsters. Originally related 12-. Start out on good holds/jams and climb up to a small left facing dihedral. Move up over a small bulge and you are staring down the crux. There are a handful of different ways to do this section, though it doesn't seem all that much harder than anything else on the route. After the crux, Fred keeps his eye on you and delivers more physical climbing with narry a rest to the top.

Trad, sport, and bouldering on a fun wall. The rock here varies from very good to very bad. Make sure you assess the bolt situation from the ground, some lines have very old bolts. I have unscrewed many bolts by hand (for safety, if they were fallen on, they were coming out anyway.)  Other than that, great sport climbing is to be had. There is a great (but sharp) 5.13 on the backside, as well as great 5.6s. The only problem with the area is the absence of multitudes of moderates.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall Left