The route is a finishing pitch high on Middle Mother's Buttress: see Location.

The main attraction to this climb is a short steep hand and finger crack just right of a dihedral.  When viewing Middle Mother's head on, this crack is around the corner to the left of the left skyline arete.

Climb the beautiful hand and finger crack in dike rock up to good stance.  Continue up a great, low-angle, hand crack that leads directly to the rappel tree atop Middle Mother's.

On Golden Pond

No Name 3

No Name 4

No Name  2

Denotation

Jenny-Lynn's Special

Beyer's Rib

Definite Article

Iron Maiden

Wandering Charm

Flora Dora

Jagged Edge

No Name  1

Rise of the Phoenix

First Impressions

The Double Reach Around

Drive-by Diking

Days of Wine and Roses

Free Falling

Under the Roof

Coxswain

Denouement

White Lightning

Dirty Harry

Indirect Objects

Connotation

Centurion

Brevity

The Ol' Hucklebuck

Pitch 1 - Start by climbing discontinuous cracks up to below a 3 foot roof.  Pull the roof using a combination of fingers, hands, and stems.  Past the roof, continue up a finger and hand (160 feet).  Belay on ledge with bolted anchor. (5.11).

Pitch 2 - Continue up a right-facing corner/dihedral with fingers/hands to a ledge (100 feet).  Belay off gear. (5.10).

Pitch 3 - Follow the dihedral up to an arete with a finger and hand crack.  Take this to the top by a pine tree (140 feet).  Belay from bolted anchor. (5.9).

Descent - From the top anchor, make 3 double rope raps.

Start with face moves to gain a left-facing dihedral.  Continue up the dihedral to a two bolt anchor.

It is vegetated.

Tricky climbing right off the deck leads through some bolts gaining a good finger crack. Continue up on dicey pro and some intricate moves to an awkward bulge. From here, make a powerful move, and it's a few easy moves to the anchor. This route can be done by staying on the true face (basically no pro for a good run) or by traversing right past the blank section to get some pro, then traversing back left onto the face to finish.

Clip some bolts up the arete. Crux comes at the fourth bolt. Stay on the arete. Good rock and moves. The old bolts have been updated with new hardware courtesy of the ASCA.

This is a second pitch variation of

Denouement

. It is a good pitch that leads to a large ledge with an anchor. The third pitch is yet to be completed.

This begins up the dihedral right above the first pitch of

Denouement

and traverses slightly left up a slab and to a few bolts. Then climb over a nose-shaped protrusion.

Head up the obvious wide corner to the left of

The Double Reach Around

. Climb mostly the face using the crack to protect. Towards the top, follow the crack and large hand holds left to the same anchor as

The Double Reach Around

.

Use a mixture of offwidth/chimney and face holds to work up this long rib. Don't shy from either or it will get hard quick. This has fun moves protected primarily by bolts.

There is a small choss price for entrance on this one. After climbing up a gully a little bit, you gain a bolt and 80' of climbing on good stone. A mixture of gear and bolts takes you to a good stance below the roof. A single technical move at bolt at about 2/3rds height marks the crux.

Start on a broken up rib featured with cracks. Continue up and right as the crack peters out and clip a bolt. From here, you launch up clipping a bolt or two and making some committing moves in between small pro. The pro is good but hard to find at times. There is no one crux on the route, just a 120' of consistent, awesome Unaweep climbing. Balancy, crimpy, and tricky: it's a Unaweep classic!

This things takes two ropes or some shenanigans with a 70m.

This varied climb offers something for everyone. Start at the same chimney for

First Impressions

. Instead of going deep in the chimney, stay shallow until you can reach a very positive ledge/jug on the left wall. From here, trend to the arete on great crack climbing. Once you reach a ledge on the arete, aim for a bolt back to the right on the steep part of the wall. Make a strenuous move and make your way back out left to the arete. From here, cruise on up to the top ans use the anchors for

First Impressions

.

Start on top of a block ledge you may want to protect the first move before the first bolt with a small nut or black Alien. Pass some bolts and do a this move until you plug in some gear and climb some more bolts. Bring gear for anchor for atop the ledge. One rope rap for the far side of the ledge from two bolts to the ground.

In a corner, go up a varying crack that leads you to beneath the crux bulge. There is a set of anchors on a ledge above this, but is not suitable for rapping. Continue up ten feet higher to rap off of

No Name  2

.

Start up a bit of a chimney and continue in the corner through a bulge and on to easier ground. This tops out on the same ledge as

Jagged Edge

.

Walk back deep into the large chimney and start up. The crux comes when you have to traverse to the outside of the chimney and do a bit of offwidth/ face move past a constriction. Using the face and chimney, continue up with one more awkward move to gain the large ledge and a two bolt anchor.

There is a a second pitch that goes at 5.7 or 5.10 depending on your choice.

This is a nice, long, varied route that goes up a continuous feature. Start off on the slab to the left of the beginning for

Beyer's Rib

. Climb past four bolts on a fun slab to a ledge. From here, reach left to gain a hand crack. Continue up as the crack pinches to fingers and you arrive below a short roof. Undercling the roof to clip a bolt, make a few strenuous moves to pass the roof, and continue up incipient cracks to the anchor.

This is one of the better climbs on Middle Mothers. The position on the arete and the overall rock quality makes for some awesome climbing. The majority of the climbing is cruiser with one technical section on the upper third which demands a full extension high step. End on top of a ledge at a two bolt anchor.

Begin up a short offwidth protected by a bolt.  Pass the offwidth into a good finger and hand crack that leads to a three foot roof.  Pass the roof using a sweet torso jam, or, if your any bigger than me, by pulling out around the crack on some face holds.  Continue up a stellar hand and finger crack to the chain anchor atop the first pitch of

Flora Dora

.

This climb would be four stars, but the section directly below the roof is just a bit sandy.

The book says to stop after 90 feet and belay, but you can just do a long rope stretcher and get to a nice belay ledge underneath a giant chockstone in a chimney. From here, you can continue straight up some loose and low angle crap or traverse right and up to

On Golden Pond

which is recommend. Rap is the same as

Golden Pond

/

Flora Dora

.

This is an old line that has previously gone unnoticed. After cleaning this up, pulling weeds, and replacing the anchors, it is a nice moderate climb on generally good rock.

Good route that will age well with some cleaning. A product of a fun sunny day with friends in February! Make some fun moves to gain the overhanging corner. Make a few strenuous moves to press out the steepest part of the corner and it's just 20 feet to the anchor.

This varied route tackles the steep wall to the right of the giant obvious roof that makes up the far right of Middle Mothers.

Pitch 1: (5.9) climb up mixed bolts and gear for a great casual pitch that should not be missed. Keep to the arete and end at obvious anchors at a ledge. Bring a few finger and smaller sizes to supplement the bolts, 70'.

Pitch 2: (5.11-) from the belay, traverse dead left through a few bolts over some great exposure and awesome moves through a shallow vein. Gain a crack system for 30'. Follow the bolts around further left up the tan granite and to a belay ledge and anchors, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 3: (5.10) climb the slab past a few bolts to a large ledge. Head up past knobby and chickenheaded features. Look for the large pinyon tree, and trend towards it. The anchors are down and right of the tree, mixed gear/bolts, 100'.

Pitch 4: (5.11-) this is the second classic pitch of the route. Clip a bolt and gain an obvious ledge. From here, clip another high bolt and make a challenging move. Use a mixture of bolts and gear as you climb at the contact zone between the pegmatite and polished, bomber granite. Trend towards a short roof and make a few strenuous moves over the roof to easier ground, 100'.

The route is 30' or so shy of topping out. The rock degrades after the last pitch anchors.

White Lightning is a forgotten classic from the '80s. Start off on a bullet quartz dike through a roof to jug rest. From here, it’s sustained technical crimping on vertical to slightly overhanging face. Get another good rest, and don’t blow it on the techy slab moves to the anchor. This climbs much better than it looks with solid rock quality throughout.

Climb up a hand crack that thins to fingers and eventually seams out.  Move out onto the face and pass three bolts, with some good crimps and shallow pockets in the seam.  Continue to a rightward trending finger crack.  Climb up this delightful finger crack and finish with a layback off the crack as it flares.

This is a really nice route that feels like it gets harder the higher you go.

This wandering line tackles the center of the roofed wall. The first two pitches courses a line through great rock with the second pitch offering amazing position traversing out the roof.

Pitch 1. Start in a sunken corner that goes over a bulge. Continue up a splitter corner for 20', then at the apex of the corner traverse slightly right and up to the first bolt. From here, weave your way up and left up a few tricky spots of delicate face climbing. The upper portion is protected by small to medium-sized gear. 15' below the anchors at a stance in a shallow corner, reach high and left to a good hold to go out and around the dirty corner immediately above you, (130') 5.10+.

Pitch 2. From the belay, head straight up to a bolt at the roof. From here, traverse out right over the lip of the roof past a bolts. Fun movement on easier terrain gets you to a belay ledge with anchors, (100') 5.9+.

Either rappel from here barely making it down with a single 70m or traverse right to finish on the last pitch of

Denouement

.

This is another variation of

Denouement

. From the top of the first pitch, traverse down and right to a hidden crack. Climb up to an awkward stance and clip a bolt. From here, tricky moves past a few gear placements and bolts leads you to the same anchors as

Denotation

.

The crux is traversing left into the crack after the last bolt. Fun technical route at the bottom, good crack at the top.

This is a nice clean line that takes you to the shared belay with

Indirect Objects

. Start off in moderate terrain until you gain the arete, a few difficult moves get you back onto moderate terrain to the anchors. This has great rock and movement throughout.

This is a great warmup for the other routes to the right and left. A long, moderate climb with a little bit of everything on great rock.

Pull through two bolts and place some small hard to find pro. Look to the left and right as you climb up for the seams that will take a #0.4 Camalot and a blue Metolius. Gain a ledge and climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral that looks like a giant offwidth. Do not let this turn you away. The corner climbs with face and arete features with minimal OW. Pull a fun move over a roof and gain a face split with many cracks. The easiest way through is by trending right and up for 20 feet and traversing back left to the obvious ledge.

This puts you in perfect position to continue up "

On Golden Pond

".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Mother's