Start on the left most block and only use the part sticking out. Hit a sloper at the top.

Gainsborough Arete

Shoot The J

Arachnophobia

The Overhang

Tarantula Traverse

Hook

Arachnoflake

Redwood Corner

Crux is the center section after the overhang, pretty easy over to the right but gets pumpy toward the middle.

Stand start. Left on a high good open hand, right on shallow pinch with a thumb catch. One move to small slot then slam dunk on the lip jug. Can be done static as well. Very nice top out.

Described in Craig Fry's Southern California Bouldering guide as the BP which has a "bolted top rope anchor for the squeamish". Some bolt holes exist on the right of the route but none were found up top.

Start on a couple pockets right of the overhang with your feet right by the spider's nest (don't kill the spiders) and work your way up to a sloper at the top.

The prominent overhang, sit start and mantle.

Start right of the flat midsection and drop a hook.

Start as you would for Arachnophobia but instead head right on a good sloping pinch. Hit the top right of the flake and mantle. The sloper on Arachnophobia is off.

Also important is that the lower jug next to the slopers is flexing and cracked and will be breaking off soon. The crack around the back is finally getting close to completed.

the two holds to the left of the knob. Head around the corner then up. Try a direct variation going over the bulge and using a shallow two finger pocket, maybe a v1+?

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gainsborough Boulders