The big daddy of Kaymoor.  Unrepeated for years after the first ascent, this route now becoming a fairly popular testpiece.

Up the reachy slab, cop a rest and launch into the violent crux bit.

Fuel Injector

Slash and Burn

Broken Foot

[Redacted]

Fairtracer

Squirrelly Adventure

Buzz Kill

The Sting

Scenic Adult

Tit Speed

Fearless Symmetry

Foxfire

Butcher Man, The

First Steps

Unknown

Mr. Hollywood

Tony the Tiger

Scramble to the top of the tall boulder, step across the airy step without pro to clip your first bolt, make some hard moves for the grade.

Continue up and enjoy the breeze and exposure up there.

The lesser of the two showpiece harder rock climbs in Kaymoor...but nevertheless, quite classic!

Crux comes early and hard climbing stays on you for the first 6 bolts, followed by a good stance and ending in a five-star coup-de-gras 5.10 slab takes you the the finish of entry level NRG 12d...unless you're a munchkin in which case you are going to earn your keep on this one.  Good luck and get on it!

The beginning is the hardest part of the route, the route is generally quite dirty. It is adventure climbing at best a choss pile at worst. The route can finish either at the Mr Hollywood anchors by traversing right or continuing to the top and rappelling from a tree.

Crimpy climbing at the low crux leads p to pump finish that wanders a bit.

Climbing trad in a sea of bolts. This rig is amazing and worth humping the rack down there.

Locate the splitter crack at the base of the "First Steps"boulder.  Cruxy low and near the top.

This route is listed as Unnamed KM #8 in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.  This climb has some interesting moves.  Climb straight up the face, wondering left and right a bit to piece it together, aiming for the roof with a horizontal crack in it.  When you reach the roof, head left, underclinging your way to the bolt above the roof.  From here, traverse a bit left, mantle up, and then traverse back right.  Straight up to the shuts from here.  A few long draws are helpful in reducing drag.  Some of the bolts could have been placed better to reduce the drag.  There's a couple suspect blocks along the way, but you can easily avoid them.

This route is broken into 3 sections separated by good rests. The crux is climbing from bolt 2 to 4 and features some seriously small, sharp crimps and balance-intensive slab moves on smeared feet. The middle section of the climb is a little easier, but still requires some good technique. The final section features a traverse left to a difficult traverse back right and then up to the anchors.

Buzz Kill is just right of Slash and Burn on the smooth orang and black face. Bring along some some skin salve if you plan to take several burns on the crux in a day.

Climb through the bright white face past a couple of bolts and traverse left to the roof. Grovel your way past it, and work through some interesting moves to the anchors. Don't get stung!

This route is full value!   A must do if you are in this area!   Start by climbing up the arete, wandering from the left to right side.  Pull through a small overhang and head up toward the larger overhang on the right side of the arete.  When you reach the top overhang, pass it on the left face, then hand traverse back right to the peak.  Heel hook and crank up onto the slabby right face using some shallow horizontals and make a reachy clip on the arete (crux).  Climb up the slab for a few moves and traverse back left to the overhanging left face.  From here, it's straight up on jugs to the anchors.   55M+ rope is needed to touch down.   Great climb!!!

depends on your height. Shorter climbers will cruise through the crux that cause some trouble for taller climbers but will have problems right after it reaching the rail under the first roof.

This rarely climbed line has surprisingly good, cruxy movement through the fourth bolt, and an enjoyable layback crack up to the sixth  Unfortunately, the route is marred by densely encroaching vegetation, a truly gripping (albeit 5.8-) runout to the anchors, and rusty, confidence-withering shuts.  If you've already ticked all the other 11's at 7-11 and don't mind getting spooked, it's probably worth getting on.

Start left of the tree and climb straight up through mostly good holds to a horizontal. Do a bit of a tough move the gain the slab, and then trend right up to the crack. Enjoy the fun crack to the roof, and then traverse left to a hard move getting established on the pedestal. Fun easy slab to top.

To get off (currently) there is no good anchor point at the top. A couple of options are:

Belay your second up and rap the tree down through the chimney on the right.

Bring up about 30 feet of webbing and build an anchor off the big boulder leaning across the gap.

Or, throw a length of rope off the backside of the block, have your partner anchor you on belay, and then rap down the route with the rope draped across the top.

Stick clip the first bolt and prepare for a few tenuous moving from the left up the arete. The climb eases up in the middle with a good stance or two on the left side. The finish is perplexing and exciting. Make use of what few holds there are above the small ledge and go for the good hold.

The route is on good rock, though a little manly in the summer.

The crux is midway up the route where the crack changes. The rock looks very chossy, but is surprisingly decent. This may very well not be an FA, there was some very old rope and webbing tied around trees as an anchor.

This climb is actually pretty good, despite its reputation.   It's likely overshadowed by it's classic neighbor, Slash and Burn, 5.12d.  Start in the corner and traverse right to the arete to meet up with the first bolt.   Climb up the left side of the arete and then rock around to a horizontal seam on the right side to make the 2nd clip.   From here, climb up to past the slab to reach a horizontal, scoot right, and climb up to make the 3rd clip.  Follow the techy face to the finish.

Start by scrambling up to a ledge and climb the crack system to reach the first overhang.  Pull the overhang and work up a flake to reach the next overhang.  Traverse left under the overhang to reach a flared flake, pull up and gain a stance (crux).   From here, follow positive holds all the way to the top to reach the final overhang.  At the final overhang, move a bit left and climb straight up to reach a large protruding block and make the final clip.  Figure out a way to get in position to clip the anchors (redpoint crux).  Long runners on the anchors make this an easier send.  You can also make the moves in the final overhang a bit easier by traversing way left and using great holds to reach the protruding block at the last bolt (this variation puts you in a bad fall position).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7. Seven Eleven Wall