A mix of crack and face climbing make this route a super-pleasure!  Most of the guide books say to start in the middle-to-left part of the face, although it is possible to start in the crack on the right and traverse to the left.  At any rate, a series of thought-provoking and interesting moves lead to a short finger-crack that splits the face.  Embrace the crack with good finger-locks, or go one-hand-in, one-hand-out to reach the top of the crack.  Continue up the face to shuts.

This route is a bit tricky/heady at the start, but can be adequately protected throughout.

Promised

Happy Head

Gemini Crack - Left

Land Ho

Gemini Crack - Rt.

Esse Crack

Lollipop

Chinese Style

Reunification

Arranged Marriage

Kielbasa Vinyasa

Last Tango

Mind Shaft

A chimney, crack, face and arête all in one climb  this has it all! Shimmy pass the short chimney to the wide ledge twenty feet up then step five feet left to a crack or continue straight up on Highlander (5.10c).  Follow crack to face and then finish on arête near top.

This routes looks intimidating compared to Gemini Right, but excellent protection and fun moves makes this a must-do. In my mind, there are two distinct cruxes, one down low, about 15 feet off the deck, and the second at the main bulge about 2/3 of the way up. The first crux is a delicate, balancy move, and the second is more mental as you surmount the bulge.

If anyone has information about this route being done previously, please let me know. Could likely be an obscurity forgotten over time or just simply undocumented. Regardless, it's a very fun route and would make a great warmup for the rest of the wall. Climbs some awesome features!

Great route! Challenging direct start (best), but also possible to traverse in from left to ledge. Fairly sustained finger crack, awkward flared pod (crux). Not many rests.

Short and sweet, Esse Crack is definitely worth checking out.  At only about 40 feet long, this S-shaped finger crack has a variety of entertaining moves and only a moderately difficult 10c.  The crux is probably up towards the top, where the feet get thin and the crack can be a bit damp at times.

This is the corner crack on the south side of a protruding section of this cliffline section. Climb up to a lower ledge and chicken-wing your way up the lower, offwidth section (tough crux). Layback and/or jam the steep finger crack to the top.  Some foot placements available by stemming the corner, and a few crimpers to move you upward.

Smear and frog your way up through 2 distinct cruxes. Bring knee & elbow pads.

"The big chimney behind the Promised wall will get you ready for the Texas Flake pitch on El Cap."

Mike Williams - New River Rock Volume 1

This is an espresso climb - short, full bodied and powerful. Scramble up easy ground to wide ledge then set-up for the route. A low pinch and a dynamic throw to a small crimp start this puppy off and you havent even reached the first bolt yet (stick clip strongly recommended)! Another two dynamic moves brings you pass the second bolt onto better holds above. Place a cam and top out. Rap from large pine tree.

Boulder up the start of Butter Face getting good gear in both horizontals, extend to reduce drag around the corner. From the corner stance traverse out right on the horizontal and mantle the ledge to establish on Happy Head.  Finish up Happy Head.

Start on my wife is a dog, but at the horizontal break halfway up, traverse right around the arete and climb the sool overhanging flake to the top of the Berlin Wall. Super rad, but dock a star for the shared start and tedious wandering about to get to the money

If this sport climb got some TLC and a set of anchors it would be a real draw for the area. Until then either anchor from trees, walk-off or bring a leave it to lower from the last bolt.

This newly re-bolted sport route is only really worth doing if you are in the area at Bridge. If Promised and the Gemini Cracks lured you out here, well there's a decent sport climb to get your argh on if you are so inclined.

Thin, techy, slopey pockets, and some patina crimps  are the name of the game on this thing. Don't expect chalk so expect to do a bit of route finding to reach the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4 Promised Area