A good excercise in thin hands jamming (even if the crux is short). Start about 65 feet left of Sidewinder and climb the obvious chimney (5.9) to where it ends at a small roof, with a thin crack above. This chimney is unprotected unless you bring a large 4-5 inch cam. At the roof, there is good pro.

Place a piece or two above the roof, then use bad jams, stems and body english to work your way up until you can get a thin hands jam and bring your feet up over the lip of the roof. Once you've established yourself in the crack above, the difficulties ease.

Descend off back of the crag (downclimb a crack or jump 12+ feet down); or jump to top of pinnacle to left and rappel off.

Jumping Jack Crack

Kingsnake

Skinny Dip

Rattle and Hum

Diamondback

Sidewinder

Venucian Fece

Skinny Pin

King Pin

Invisible Touch

Munchkinland

This is the fairly spectacular wide chimney between the King Pin Pinnacle and the main cliff. Unprotected until just below the top where you can get a piece of pro. An exciting, airy, and serious lead.

Yet another variation to Sidewinder, this is the hardest of the "snake" routes, and although offering good climbing is seldom done.

Starting a ways right of Sidewinder, climb powerful, bouldery moves over the obvious stepped roof to gain the dike of Sidewinder at it's start. Traverse left to join Sidewinder at it's last bolt and finish up that route.

A worthwhile route to do if competent at the grade, and a logical start to access and fully enjoy the fantastic dike system that characterizes Sidewinder.

This route is located up and around the corner from Sidewinder and is worth doing if you can be assured of not falling.  It is unique in that it climbs a nice crack into a squeeze-through "tunnel", out the other side, and continues up a chimney to the top.  Larger-hipped individuals will have difficulty with the squeeze (it isn't called Skinny Dip by mistake).  The chimney definitely warrants an "R" rating.

Rap from 2-bolt anchor as for Invisible Touch.

Begin at the notch just up and right from the starting ledges of Kingsnake. Climb an impossible looking face up to a groove.

Begin on

Sidewinder

and where that route cuts left continue up over a small roof and past three bolts on featured rock to gain the prominent dike. Traverse left, clip a final bolt, (shared with

Sidewinder

and make the long tenuous traverse up and left to the top.

The descent is to the climber's left, where a bit of down-climbing, or a leap, will access a pinnacle with rap anchors.

Although essentially a variation to

Sidewinder

this route is equally as good and a recommended alternative if you've already done that route.

Begin in the center of the formation at a left-facing flake and climb up this to a bolt. Thin face past the bolt (crux) leads into a left-arching crack system and then a vertical crack which ends at the obvious dike. Mantle up, clip a bolt and then make a long, thought-provoking traverse up and left until able to reach the top.

To descend downclimb/leap across a gap to reach a pinnacle with rap anchors located to the climber's left.

This is another semi-classic route to do and one that won't soon be forgotten. Not as scary as it looks, it's still fairly sporty and thus not recommended unless solid at the grade.

A 5.10+ hand jam traverse leads to a shallow thin crack crux.

This face route follows a few bolts right of the route Invisible Touch, skirting just left of the southwest corner of the big chimney.

This route is located up and around the corner from Sidewinder, just right of Skinny Dip.

Climb the initial handcrack as for Skinny Dip, then step out right onto the face.  Clip a bolt, followed by 2 more. Make a difficult move right (crux) to gain a crack which takes you to the top.

Rap from a 2-bolt anchor.

Climb a juggy patina face up to a short vertical crack, then clip a bolt that protects crux slab moves to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sidewinder Rock - West Face