A nice moderate TRAD route in an area known mostly for its sport classics. Many positive holds, rests..."pleasant climbing." Lieback crux(es).

Jumpin' Ring Snakes

All The Right Moves

Bourbon Sauce

Play it by Ear

The Green Piece

Bicycle Club

Lost Souls

Boing

Sancho Belige

Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio)

Ministry

Flight of the Gumby

Low Voltage

Control

Kaos

Bag, The

Just Another Glitch

Springer

[Redacted]

Mo' Betta' Holds

This is a great route!  Begin by using a few smaller holds to gain a series of jugs that take you to the 2nd bolt.  From here, head up and get under the first roof, clip the bolt and find a rest out left.   Once rested, traverse back right and make a big reach to a positive horizontal.  Get setup and make another reach to another positive horizontal and traverse right a bit to clip the 5th bolt.   From here, keep it together and head out right to gain a nice rest (crux).  Rest up, and traverse back left, make the final clip and follow very good holds to the finish.

Start with a sweet but all too short left facing hand jam corner to a few pulls and a fun warm up roof. Relax on the ledge and fire off tough moves out the roof and keep it together for the upper face. Great climbing all around.

Start beneath the 12a "Control," but move left under the initial roof to a tricky roof pull and a high first bolt.  There is another crux higher up.

2nd climb down trail to Butcher's Branch (just right of Stop Pulling My Ear).

6 bolts

come down the trail, head left at the cliffline to well worn belay. Furthest left bolt line (not including route staring on top of ledge)Slightly overhanging face climb. For a 5.10 leader will likely feel very pumpy, lots of falls taken from the top!

Has a couple of tricky sections and some good bouldery moves.

Start by climbing up and left toward the line of bolts.   Continue up the wall as it begins to get steeper.   The 4th bolt is a bit difficult to clip.  From the 4th bolt, traverse a bit left, climb up and then head back right to reach the 5th bolt (crux).   From here continue straight up to a nice mantle move to gain the 6th bolt.   From here traverse a bit right and then straight up to the roof and traverse back left to the shuts.   This route can be made significantly more difficult by heading straight up to the shuts after the 6th bolt.

This climb follows the middle of the left bulging wall.

Start out on some slopey and insecure deadpoints, then work up pumpy moves with a couple of hard clips to a horn 1/2 way up that allows a good rest. Rest, then punch out the final moves past 3+ bolts to gain the anchors.

This route hands out a huge pump!!

The furthest climb on climber's left. Shares holds with Play it by Ear. Not as good as it's neighbor.

5.10 and 5.11 moves make the beginning of this climb just hard enough that when you finally reach the crux just before the anchors you will be pumped! Make sure you take advantage of the rest above bolt 3.

The crimpy, reachy, pumpy and technical crux of this climb makes this one a challenging tick for anyone.

This climb starts on the right wall of the obvious huge left facing corner of Butcher's branch. Grab some jugs right off the ground and muscle your way up to better holds moving toward the arete as you go. About halfway up you'll traverse to the right side of the arete utilizing a small ledge. Follow the bolts up as the moves get more balancy and sequence dependent.

Classic climb that usually has a little line. A full-value route.

Begin just right of

The Green Piece

. Climb straight past 7 bolts to one cold shut.

Shares the start with the 11d Bourbon Sauce, but goes straight up.  Hard 2nd clip, and a crimpy crux leads to larger holds but bigger moves.  Move right slightly to the Anchors of Kaos for a rest, and then more fun 10+/11- climbing through horizontals to the anchors.

If bouldery climbing with plentiful kneebars is your style, try Kaos on for size.

This climb starts with a slab move, but quickly gets into the business. From a big layback extend up and right to catch a jug and make you crss-over clip then work over right move into two kneebars and up some crimps, deadpoint up to a horizontal then to another above that, handjams are there, but feet are bad. Make a terrible move out left to a sidepull horn, clip the fourth and last bolt then gun up and right to a jug and three more moves in the 5.10 range will bring you to the anchors.

Climb this neat handcrack through a roof and to an alcove.  From here you'll chimney up to the anchor with a ledge.

The wide crack just left of Green Piece is fun and sustained.  Rappel from the tree.

Steep slab with very few positive holds in the crux that are placed just so that you really have to trust your feet.

The climb starts with some easy climbing and gets casually a little more difficult as you go up.  The crux comes just before the anchors.

Delicate moves that rely far more on balance than strength will guide you up this one.

This route should be obligatory for people breaking into 5.11 sport climbing.  I think the character of this route reflects early sport climbing routes.   Expect widely spaced bolts, a weird crux, and an exciting top out.

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical.

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. Butcher's Branch