Immediately to the right of tall and dirty. About 2 feet off the ground you will find an undercling pocket. This is the sit start. Throw for a small left hand crimp. Lock it off and stand to another 1/2 pad crimp. Dead point for a sloper further out. Match and head upwards.

Homecoming

Line of Weakness

Tall and Dirty

Baby Please!

Family Values

Southern power trip

Two Pines

Excavation Optional

Unnamed 5.8

Steep. Start just right of the big dirty crack and pull to gain the face to the left of the crack then crank up ledges through the roof and up through bulgy terrain.

Line of Weakness flows from a quirky start to a line of crimps that swoops left then vertical to jugs up top. Stay out of the jug haul dirty crack on the left if you truly want to find your inner weakness. Route starts with a low undercling pocket hidden right above ground level and a right hand crimp. Pull hard to gain crimps of all sizes arrayed at all angles as this route follows an incipient seam to the jugs up top.

Farthest left on the boulder wall is a ramp that goes through some sloped jugs. Despite being pretty positive face it feels like it will slap you down if you don't tread lightly on its emotions.

Family Values sit starts off thin nearly vertical arching edge using whatever feet you can reach. The crux is right off the ground. Move up and right to a good sloper and bump beyond for better holds. Move straight up to the top using edges and side pulls. Short but stout line.

Crux is pulling onto the blank face. Sds matched on jug block at the base of boulder. Head up into an undercling. Gain crimp rail. Dead point for a distant slot crimp. Slap your way up the slopes arete to top out. Not sure what the grade is. Lowest would be a v4. It felt like a v7 to me due to the crimps and body tension, but I am also 5'5".

Great sport lead. Good hand holds throughout. Nice shaded spot on a sunny day.

Sit start as far right as you can get in the 'cave' behind the chock stone with a good pocket for right hand. Feet are under the boulder on good  nubbins. Move left across the face on good pockets and ledges with heel hooking aplenty. Numerous ok holds and a few great holds. Don't bother with the lesser holds unless you want to make this horizontal mambo ultra hard. Pull out under the chock stone and  up though the point to finish. This one will have you panting and begging for more.

This route follows an obvious crack system just to the right of the Two Pines route. There is some loose rock en route, but I generally found placements I liked, including a couple fall-all-day ones.

Because this line is next to a good 5.7 sport route, I am not under the illusion that I made the FA, or even the first trad FA, so I welcome any information pertaining to that and to the route's name if it has one.

When I led this, I was by myself and had to use my Soloist and a ground anchor, and I also had to rappel the route in order to clean it, and I found that the best anchor was tying off two trees that were a little skinnier than I'd have liked but which had to do. Those first skinny trees I had any faith in were also well back from the top, maybe a good 50', so plan accordingly if you want to set a toprope.

Alternatively, you could probably belay a second from the Two Pines anchors and set a directional at the top of this route without too much trouble.

The 5.8 is my estimate based on my feeling that pulling the small roof down low was a bit harder than anything on Two Pines. Other than that, I'd call the rest 5.6 or 5.7. You can bypass the roof on the right, but I didn't see any good pro there. I did go that way on TR and found it easier, but again, on lead it likely will be a run-out start.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Falls