The original route up the north side of the "dome", very runout, but partially retrobolted by one of the modern routes. Take the middle of the face to a single bolt 35' up, then trend right to an old rusty 1/4" bolt which is only 3' from a modern bolt on "Muffy". Then climb past the last bolts on Muffy and its anchor, to 2 more bolts among loose plates on the way to the summit. Very easy to start Muffy and finish this route to get to the summit. All bolts replaced except the one only 3' from a new bolt, 11/03.

Sweet Home Arizona

Spot

Death of a Cowboy

Gong

The Quick And The Dead

Muffy

Party Trick

Awesome edges, with a cruxy start. The first bolt on Sweet Home Arizona is sometimes used by people who have trouble clipping the third bolt. Mike Strassman had the FA info (including name) up on his website a while back, but the site is down and I didn't note down who did the FA - just the name.

Fun route on the small formation just right of the main wall. We couldn't figure out a name, but then our friend was bummed that country musician Chris LeDoux had died, so that's how we named it (not knowing there was already a route named the same at Indian Creek).

Tip-toe up good edges on hollow rock. The bolts are solid.

Start by climbing up a subtle alcove to larger holds before clipping the 1st bolt.  Pull up over a small lip and onto an open slab.  Pass 2 more bolts then head to the same mussy hook anchors as 'Death Of A Cowboy'.

Sweet incut edges, gets my vote for best 5.8 at the Alabama Hills. However, it blatantly retrobolts Sweet Home Arizona. Fun to link this route to the top of Sweet Home Arizona (5.8 bit runout, loose plates)

Bolts are solid. Rock is better than it sounds!

Worthwhile route with fun positioning. Climb broken leaning blocks to fun airy arete. Finish at Spots Anchors, or funner yet continue past 3 more bolts up and right!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Arizona Dome