Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.

Agent Orange

Maranatha

The Force

Where Real Men Dare

Beginners Only

Two Edged Sword

Your Mother...

Talking with Angels

Great warm-up climb...and the busiest at this part of the cliff. The climb starts with tricky overhangs that lead to a ledge below a crack in a right-facing corner. Go up the crack (crux) and set up anchors on trees up top.

This route starts with a bouldery finger-crack, but once you get off the ground, eases up substantially until the upper crux.  Pull the low-roof, then up to a hueco, move right until you gain the finger-crack that runs to the top.  The crux is a short section near the top, where the crack tapers out and a few thin moves are rewarded by a solid hand-jam.

Black, left facing dihedral with a small roof. A stemming, tips and finger crack with the crux bulge near the top.

Left facing corner, low angle with plenty of dirt on the bottom ledges.  A quick climb. Medium gear to anchors.  Rap the route.  Last climb on the wall above the fork in the trail.

This route has a tricky start, as the feet are pretty minimal and you may need to jump to reach the first hold.  Follow the thin crack to reach the first overhang.  Finger lock in the only slot in the roof and stem to reach the protruding corner to gain a stance up and left.  Climb up and cross the corner to reach the next overhang with a finger crack in it.  Pull this overhang and follow a dirty face to the finish.  This route is very sustained for 5.10d.  The moves are very unique with good gear.

Nice 5.9 handcrack...just wish it was longer.

Jam and stem with an occasional hold. Crack widens near top.

(Usually dry, but dampness lingers after prolonged wet weather.)

The route starts in a short left-facing corner 10 feet left of Where Real Men Dare. Climb the corner (small Aliens, Lowe Balls) and veer up and left through a series of small overhangs (up to #3 BD cams, medium Aliens). Traverse right and clip the bolt under a blank face capped by a large roof. Climbing between the two bolts is the technical crux (5.11d). From the second bolt move right onto the arete. Climb few feet to the flaring horizontal crack and stuff it with gear (small Aliens, nuts) to protect the final run-out to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3 Maranatha Area