To access the main flake system in the center of the cave roof there are 3 different places to start from.  The hardest and longest line start on the left side of the cave at a thin crack line in the roof leading out right to the start of the main flake system.  The easiest line starts on the right side of the cave near the cave opening.  And the main route starts in the center of the cave at the beginning of the main flake system.  Follow the flake and crack system out of the cave and moving slightly left climb the face to the top. 

The Cave

Do What!

Imagination

Do or Die

Mother F

Head Shoulders Knees and Toes

Danatron

Doggy Day Care

Do You Feel Lucky, Punk?

Inverted Iron Cross

Bloody Bucket

Gratefully Dead

Quiver

The Wimpy Whiner Way

Dyno Wimp

Do or Die Indirect

Agitation

Out of the Cauldron and Into the Fire

start on the right side of the cave entrance, climb into the cave and to the other side, exit the cave on the left side, traverse left to the left side of the face and up to top outbeta: youtube.com/watch?v=8he7WhF…;

When offering beta on this climb the common expletive response is often Do What!  This line has become a classic at Woodstock and may seem harder then 5.10c until you unlock its sequence.  Climb the short thin finger crack and face up to the alcove.  Move out the left side of the large flat roof to its outer corner and pull up for the large protruding horn.  Find the key hand hold and stand up.  Finish it off on moderate ground to the top.  

Start just right of Gratefully Dead and Bloody Bucket in a small left facing dihedral  that is left of the rising left facing corner of Do or Die Indirect. From the pedestal above, enter the crux by moving out to the left arete and the right end of the Agitation roof without using the right side of the upper dihedral on Gratefully Dead. Ascend the left arete and finish the crux by slapping for slopers under the anchors.

Start directly under the roof on the right side of the cliff. Pull up under the overhang for good crimps along the right half of the lip, pull through the overhang on the right side using a lefthand side pull above the crimps to reach through a few bad sloping right hand holds before reaching a thank god knob. Continue straight up the slab face above to finish.On lead the crux moves through the roof are weakly protected with a black tricam or BD #0.3. Questionable whether a fall at the end of the crux sequence would be held by the placement.

Start in the horizontal cracks below the prominent low overhang of Dyno Man/Wimp. Move up the right side of the overhang and aim for a slot in the overhangs above to reach the top.

The route starts under the large roof between Mother F and Dyno Man(Wimp).  Cllimb directly under the roof.  Us holds on the right of the roof(Mother F) to get into postiion to use the large rail on Dyno Man.  Find your good heel on top of the roof then use the crimps including the good outside 2 finger crimp(You'll be thankful you found it) to pull straight through the roof.  Once you get on top of the roof a nice easy jaunt straight up finishing out on the crack roof on Mother F.  The crux is the bouldery start to pulling the first roof.  

 I gave the route a 11d.  With the single boulder problem crux I do not feel it is quite a 12 though the boulder problem is a tough sequence to nail.

 The route can be done on gear though I have not yet and want to run it a few more times on TR before I run it on gear.

Stand start with a righthand undercling and left hand sidepull at shoulder/head height.  Move up to the sloping rail, traverse right, then reach up to a flat hold at the cleft and top out. Beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=aUoSpZJ…

Climb up the arete/side on the east side of the cave. 

Go up on good holds to a big horn/ledge. Keep going up another 8 feet above the ledge to top out.

Inverted Iron Cross is perhaps a harder variation to Agitation that climbs straight up through both roofs without moving over to the low angle hand crack of “Bloody Bucket”.  Back in the mid 90’s I found an unconventional way to pull through the first roof crux and reach the second roof by getting into the gymnastic position called the “inverted iron cross”.  Not sure how to rate this climb plus it might be different if someone figures out a more conventional approach.

The old classic at Woodstock, the start is the same as Gratefully Dead in the short triangular shaped open book.  Move up the crack and head left under the middle roof.  Follow the low angle hand crack out left and then take the intersecting crack back right.  Make an awkward traverse move to the right in-between two overhangs to finish the climb. 

This route is believed to be the first route climbed at Woodstock.  Climb the short triangular shaped open book and move up the crack to a shelf on the right.  Continue up the tight V shaped chimney to the top.   

Mantle onto a low ledge, wedge yourself under the blunt arete, snag a hidden hold, reach up to a vertical rail, get high feet and work your way up the rail as it crescents toward horizontal. Finish on straight forward horizontals.

Climb the corner to the roof making a long reach to the end of the overhang for a horn and then another horn.  Climb the short crack above and follow the low angle crack out left to the top. 

Start on off-angle slots and edges near the left arete of the main cliff. Balance/reach out to the left side of the prominent low overhang and start pulling on off-angle jugs through the left side of the high overhang to reach the top.

Same start as Do or Die, under the 3ft overhang on the right side of the main cliff. Traverse left under the roof, following the ascending left facing corner until it joins Gratefully Dead at a ledge. Traverse right into the face or finish up Gratefully Dead.

Start four feet left of Gratefully Dead and pull the overhang just off the ground.  Move up the face and over the small overhang.  Stand up at the left end of Agitation Roof and traverse right underneath the roof.  Once under the center of the roof reach around the overhang for a positive horizontal.  Finish it off to the top. 

Park in the large gravel parking lot across from the Woodstock Inn. 

 There is a new access trail the begins at the end of the parking lot. Do not walk along the train tracks. 

 Forty foot tall and covered with many jug filled overhangs, the majority of the climbs start at the 5.8 level. The cave on the left side offers the longest roof problems in the Patapsco extending up to 24 feet long. Woodstock rock attracts both top-rope climbers and boulders and offers a few good leadable climbs for the experienced trad climber. The rock faces north and seldom sees the sun making for an ideal late spring to early fall destination. One draw back is after a long soaking rain the rock face will stay wet for about 2 days as water seeps out the numerous cracks systems.

 Due to the extensively established climbs and many undocumented variations there is no room to add new bolt lines nor are there are not any bolted climbs on the crag. The local climbing heritage is quite adamant toward having a low impact on our limited climbing areas.

 Guidebooks

Climb Maryland by Mark Indy Kochte is the most comprehensive resource for Woodstock rock.

 For top systems anchors you'll need up to 50 foot long systems to reach the many large trees at the top of the rock.

 History Climbing started at Woodstock some where around the late 60's and here is a list of the original routes and names that are known Do or Die, Gratefully Dead, Bloody Bucket, The Wimpy Whiner Way, and Mother F. This group of climbers included Howard Kornblum, Joe McManus, Rob Savoye, Scott Mculrg, Ed Bollack and likely a few more. In 1990 John Kelbel started climbing at Woodstock and worked on cleaning the rock off and adding more routes. In The following years Woodstock saw just occasional visit and it wasnt until 2010 that its popularity in both top-roping and bouldering took an impressive jump seeing almost weekly visits.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Woodstock Rock