The start consists of opposing sidepulls, and the crux is to hold on to one of them while reaching high for another sharp sidepull.  Grab it with your right and lay off of it to work right foot up to the original right hand.  Flag the left foot, stand up and rest your left hand in a nice horizontal.  The next obvious hold occurs where the boulder's face backs off the vertical and it resembles a mini-runnel which can provide a fingerlock.  However, you may consider using it for another sidepull as you squeeze a sloper with the right, work the feet onto a very thin section of the face and throw for the finishing jug.

My Two Cents (aka Penny Standard)

Penny Lunge

Penny Standard (aka Right of Penny Pincher)

Right Traverse

Penny North

Silver Dollar Traverse

Penny Pincher

Southwest Arete

Penny Boulder Traverse

The crux is getting off of the ground, keeping shoulders and tips intact.

Find the Penny Boulder downhill and a bit North of the Mental Block.  On the west side of the south face is a rail just aboe head height.  Grab it and lunge to the top.  Yummy.  Variations include double dyno, static lockoff via fingerlock in rail, and lunging from lower down on the SW arete to the top.  Drool.

Traverse the south face, left to right. Two variations of this climb exist.  A slightly more difficult  version uses the sidepulls below the obvious rail for hands. Top out early or at the south-east corner.

This problem climbs the North end of the Penny Boulder. Sit start with a right hand undercling and left on a thin pinch. Do a crux first move to a left hand edge. Then go right to the arete, and continue slapping your way up. Top out on the North face slab.

This route traverses right to left along the West face of the Penny Boulder. Sit start on the far right side arete. Traverse left staying as low as possible on crimps and scrunchy feet until you reach the start holds of the Penny Pincher.  Finish on the

Penny Pincher

. For me, the crux was shifting onto the start holds of

Penny Pincher

. This took some unexpected, awkward footwork.

I'm curious how other people would rate this. I could see it going harder than I've rated it but not easier than V6.

On the Penny Boulder (see

Penny Lunge

), find a littering of iron (black/red nubbins) on the north side of the west face.  Crimp and edge your way up on the face.  I flag here.

Sit start the southwest arête. Obvious holds and a fun climb.

From the Benningfield guidebook: "traverse the west face from right to left using any available holds." This pretty much stays high on the face as the low traverse (

Silver Dollar Traverse

) is substantially harder. You can finish by topping out on the

Penny Pincher

holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pitch Penny Boulder