This was my second time leading a face climb at Joshua Tree, and it was exciting.  The first bolt is about 40 feet off the ground.  Just before you get to the first bolt you need to make a couple of 5.8 moves, including a high step/mantle on a small chicken head.  Before you make the moves to the first bolt, make sure to look down.  40 unprotected feet below your feet you will see a broken Manzanita bush and a cactus.  I wonder how the branches got broken?After the bolt comes a few nice 5.9 moves.  Then the climb gets easier on big patina flakes.  50 feet past the first bolt you will come to a second bolt.  Then about 60 more feet to the top.Definitely worth doing if you are a competentent 5.9 leader.  It is also perfect for a cold day because it faces the sun.

Enchanted Stairway

Tragic Kingdom

Jungle Cruise

Fantasia

Mad Hatter, The

Brass Monkey

Stereo in B Flat

Walt's Frozen Head

Snow White's Scary Adventures

Spaced Mountain

Wheel of Fortune

Peter Pan's Flight

Never Never Land

Mental Bankruptcy

Autopia

Mr. Todd's Wild Ride

Never Grow Up

Face climbing leads into the crack which varies from fingers to hands (crux) and then ends about 2/3 of the way up the face. After the crack ends move up and right on huge plates (5.6) to the ledge Enchanted Stairway ends on.

To descend head east towards Thrutcher Dome through a notch to reach rap anchors above the shorter east face - one rope easily makes it down.

A superb route which combines some fun crack climbing with runout but exhilarating face climbing, all in a semi-remote setting.

Start up and right of

Enchanted Stairway

below a darkly varnished face.

Climb the obvious crack system between

Enchanted Stairway

and

Brass Monkey

(the bolted line up the darkly varnished face) past a nolia to a belay ledge.

Start to the right of

Mental Bankruptcy

and

Autopia

at the obvious, left facing corner/chimney (the arête just right of this huge corner/chimney is the line of

the Mad Hatter

).

Pitch 1: Climb up the huge corner/chimney about 50 feet, then go left past a block to a belay at a right facing corner below the upper headwall.

Pitch 2: Climb the right facing corner then up to a bolt belay on a dike.

Pitch 3: Climb the crack directly above the belay (crux).

Pitch 1 (5.10B) is sustained thin face climbing, protected by four bolts.  The crux is a short headwall at the top of the pitch.  Pitch 2 (5.9) follows a steep arete.  You can get good protection with RPs and stoppers.  To descend, scramble down a bit and rappel off the back side.  There is another Mad Hatter climb in Joshua Tree, on Hunk Rock near Barker Dam.

This is the bolted route right of

Enchanted Stairway

on the nice steep dark colored rock.

Start about 50 feet uphill of

Snow White's Scary Adventures

in the notch between Disneyland Dome and Thrutcher Dome.

TR a thin seam/crack.

One starts on a ledge about 40 ft right and around the corner of Brass Monkey.  Climb a short bit until one has to turn the corner and clip a bolt.  The climb then joins Brass Monkey at the top.

Begin a few feet uphill of

Peter Pan's Flight

and just downhill of a chasm.

Climb up a short flake to its top (red Camalot), then mantle onto a horizontal dike. Continue up a short, right facing flake (if you are tall, you can place a green Camalot in the flake) to easier ground.

Pitch 1: Climb out left on the

Mental Bankruptcy

dike to the belay at a block.

Pitch 2: Climb flakes above the belay, then go up and slightly left to a left facing corner. Follow the corner to the top.

This route is found on the north end of Disneyland Dome; a crack leading to steep face on the obvious buttress.

Climb up a ramp and make a tricky move left into the easy appearing left slanting crack. This crack is steep, awkward and tricky (10d) and begins thin and finishes wide. Above the crack, make a circuitous journey on thin face climbing past 4 bolts (11b), eventually leading to a large ledge.

Rappel (100 feet) from a bolt anchor on the ledge.

Start about 20 feet uphill of

Never Never Land

at a short left-leaning ramp with a nolina growing out of its base. Just above the short ramp are two big flakes/blocks that are barely adhered to the wall.

Climb up and left to the top of the ramp, then climb the smooth face above to the top of the face.

Make a somewhat strenuous traverse along a horizontal into a delicate flake to face above. Easily top-roped from the anchors above Never Grow Up. Two stars out of five.

This route traverses most of the west face of Disneyland Dome via a thick band of protruding quartz. It starts near the southern end, a short scramble up and left of Jungle Cruise. As with most traverses, the follower faces the same dangers as the lead climber. The rock is somewhat gritty from a lack of traffic.

This is a very loose and dangerous climb that should be avoided or top roped.

Climb up a steep chimney slot until possible to exit left on very loose face holds and steep hand crack.  Trying straight up looks more pleasant but quickly gets super hard.

Continue on very loose ground and creative gear placement to a half out 1/4" rawl drive bolt.  Spooge up heady steep face to reach a shallow crack that is better climbing.

Pitch 1: Climb out left on the

Mental Bankruptcy

dike to the first belay at a block.

Pitch 2: Move left about 20 feet to a finger crack. Climb up the crack then up and slightly left on the varnished face to the top.

Climb a crack/flake to three bolt face that leads directly to a bolted anchor/rap. One, maybe two stars out of five.

Description

Protection

Routes in Disneyland Dome