Climb a short 3rd Class scramble to the start ledge. This route has three potential starts: the right start follows a diagonal crack into a dihedral and is the original FA line, it’s about 5.8. The left start is pretty reachy at the second bolt but fun and maybe bumps it up to a 5.9. If one starts on the left and after the first bolt moves to the right it drops to about 5.7, but the rope drag really sucks. From the ledge where everything meets up, continue up a dihedral to another ledge then up left to the last dihedral. It’s around 5.7 from where everything meets up to the top.

It’s the Mittens

Cougar Tracks

Jane of the Jungle

Mr. Muderbritches

Catwalk

Climb up some easy 5th Class terrain past two bolts to a right-facing corner. Climb up the corner past two more bolts, and continue up to a chimney on the left. Good gear can be found in a crack on the right as you climb the chimney past the lower anchor for

Catwalk

and up to a two bolt anchor on the right after attaining a big ledge.

From the sloping ledge, start up a slightly overhanging feature on the right. The start has some junky rock and tricky pro. From the next ledge, stay right, and climb up a left-trending hand crack in a corner with slabby foot holds. Continue up approaching the remnants of a large bush and into an offwidth pod. Above, a smaller crack, on your right in a dihedral, offers opportunities for stemming and leads to a big ledge and a two bolt anchor.

This is a long route that can be broken up into two pitches or done in one long pitch with a 60m. Starting on the left from the sloping ledge, climb up a chimney with some junky rock and tricky pro up to a pegmatite dike, and continue past two bolts and onto a ledge at the bottom of a dihedral. Move up the dihedral past one more bolt and past a gigantic wedged block to a big ledge. From here, it’s a chimney climb on the left up to a two bolt anchor. Belay from the top, then rap down using two ropes.

A single 70m might get you to the ground if you rap towards the base of routes 2 and 3.

Do the same start as for

Cougar Tracks

. From the 1st bolt, head over to the face climb on your left on a giant, detached block. From the top of the block, transfer to the other face on the right, and follow the bolts to the lower two bolt anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wildcat One Northwest Face