This route is particularly dirty. Three pitches to join Costanoan. The pitches are 110ft, 70ft and 120ft respectively

Anasazi

Costanoan

Power Tools

UPDATED ON 12-17-20: This route is a great introduction to multipitch climbing. The rock is surprisingly solid and the climb is very well protected for a 4-pitch 5.4 (original rating) sport climb. It is in the shade, which makes it a relatively cool climb on a hot day and a chilly climb on a cold day. Be careful not to dislodge small rocks on the ledges, which could bounce down the route. Some bolts are very closely spaced (especially pitch 3). There are several runouts on very easy terrain (5.0 or easier).

Pitch 1: 5.4 (crux at start), 120', 7 bolts. The first few moves will probably feel harder than 5.4 (5.5 in my opinion). After clipping the first bolt, aim up and left to the arete to find the second bolt; it's runout but very easy, like 5.0, and you can sling knobs if you feel uncomfortable. Attach a long runner to bolt 2 or you'll feel rope drag higher up. Afterward the bolts are closely spaced. Belay at bolts at the edge of a huge ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.3, 95' (or 80'), 6 bolts. If you wish, you can shift the belay to another set of bolts 15' from the edge of the ledge, at the base of pitch 2. Follow four closely spaced bolts up a groove and then traverse up and left past two more bolts, across the arete, to a bolted anchor with a small hanging belay stance on the face. Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked, skipping the uncomfortable hanging belay.

Pitch 3: 5.3, 85', 3 bolts. Climb up and then left toward the first bolt, which is a few feet to the left of a big hole, then up past two more bolts to a bolted anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.2, 90', 4 bolts. Climb up past a bolt and then surprisingly far to the left to bolt 2, then up past two more bolts to a bolted anchor on a large ledge just below the summit. From the anchor, scramble 10' up a class 4 bulge to the summit; to be safe you can tie off about 20' of rope to the anchor.

The quickest and safest descent is rappelling the route, but if climbers are beneath you be very careful throwing down the rope and try not to knock small rocks off the ledges. A 70 m rope will get you down in four rappels. A 60 m rope will leave you stranded 15' above the ground at the first bolt of pitch 1 (which somebody should place a quick link on for a fifth rappel). Two ropes will get you down in three rappels (pitch 4, pitches 2-3, and pitch 1).

Pitch one we climbed the 10b sport (not the 5.9 crack) variation.  It was dirty, mossy, traversy, and pretty dang fun.  I used single length slings on bolts one and two and didn't get much drag at all.  At the anchor atop pitch one I pulled the rope through all of the gear then lowered it back down to Vickie, making it a safer follow.  Pitch two head up and right through putting green-like terrain to some (whoooo-hooo) cleaner stone.  Pitches 3 and 4 are pretty much clean killer bee sport climbing with an emphasis on stemming. Less pumpy than it's neighbor "Misson Impossible".  Vic and I felt the bolt location was right on; bolts at all cruxy bits.  Young guide calls PT 5.10d so go send it and start feeling good about yourself again.

Final notes:  Beware of raptor closures (Citadel formation is open in the fall) and PT faces north so it is shady.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Citadel