Start above a big boulder.  Follow thin crack up a right-facing dihedral, then up and over a bulge roof.  Small offset cams helpful.

Gas Jockey

Yaborrhea

Dos Peros Negros

Fingertip Traverse Of Josh

Arturo's Arete

Yabo Phone Home

Strain Gauge

A pleasant, varied climb (face and lieback).  In older guidebooks, it was named "Manny, Moe, & Jack."

Thin dihedral crack right of Yabo Phone Home, with a "helper" crack to its left for the upper section.  Awkward at spots.  Also, there's a precarious loose-looking big block at the top of the dihedral that one might want to not disturb.  MP one star = OK, according to its quality scale.  Overall, not outright terrible, but fairly meh, more so to experience the odd awkwardness.

Start up past a right-slanting diagonal to gain a thin flake, then up along the right side of the latter, until arriving at the start of the right-slanting fingertip traverse. Good thin gear up til then. Some marginal thin gear across the traverse. Then a vertical handcrack to the top. Anchor bolts atop adjacent Two Guys On The Wrong Climb to climber's left. FTOJ is on the north face of the northern most section of Pep Boys Crag, visible from the Playhouse/Cathouse pullout. (Note: the route as drawn in Joshua Tree West starts further to climber's right, to

somehow

gain an upper leftward arch marked by an unprotectable hairline seam over lichen covered coarse grains that looks untraveled, which connects only to the midpoint of the above described fingertip traverse, as in one would end up doing only the latter half of that traverse. Probably mis-drawn in that 2006 book.)

Follow cracks just right of the arete, until you can reach the arete. Climb up the arete past a couple of bolts, and then do a short traverse on top of the ridge to get to the summit.

This fun, short, well protected route provides a memorable mental challenge.  Twenty years after I climbed it, I can still remember the weird crux sequence.

Up and over an alcove overhang to wrap left and up via off-fingers to tight-hands splitter crack.  On west side of the sprawling Pep Boys formation.  West-facing with morning shade and afternoon sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pep Boys Crag