Squeeze up detached chimney past 3 well spaced bolts. Launch up beautiful suspended finger crack, nesting gear at the top. Punch it to the ledge on marginal gear on easier terrain. Climb smart, climb sharp and wear a snazzy shirt!

Roll of the Dice

Double Barrel Shotgun

Biofuel

Lot Lizards

Snake Eyes

Just a Little Swordplay

White Trash Summer

A Brief Affair

Glass Catcher

The Direct Comfortably Numb Free

No Rest for the Weary

Whit beat me again. :( Either climb into the first bolt from No Rest or (better) pre-clip the first bolt on rappel. after the first bolt move through a intro easier boulder problem V6. Get to the "rest" side pull before pulling either a left or right crux deadpoint. 5.11 to the top.

Clip a bolt and climb up oppositional seams to the horizontal slot. Rest and keep moving up large steep butt flares, slopers and sidepulls with decent gear and a bolt. At the large jug step right onto a series of rails and edges, continued good climbing (5.10+)to a pair of shuts at the anchors.

One can also climb straight up the corner of rotten quartz at 5.8.

Start the same as for "Comfortably Numb", take the right leaning crack system after the intial 15'.  Good and moderate crack leads to an overhanging off-width that looks quite mungy.  A #5 Camalot is useful here.  Place it as high as possible and then monkey left of the ow on good/incut holds (watch rope drag). You will be 8-10' up and left of the #5 at this point, don't fall.  Chain anchors await 10' higher.

South side of First Buttress. Start 50' below "Down Under" at the base of a very large flake feature. Clip one bolt then traverse left to a small hands crack leading to a ledge. Climb the left of two seams (small cam) up to a bolt. Ascend through another bolt to an overhang with gear options. An overhanging rightwards traverse leads to a bolt-protected exit. Fun, repeatable.

Move past 15' of easier ground on gear. Bolts continue up moderate terrain to a large rest jug. Once rested, pull hard on any of the numerous small holds and wish that there was at least one right foot

Just to the left of Glass Catcher, this line ascents an overhanging bulge for 4 bolts, then climbs a slab/face with gear for protection. Rock quality is pretty poor on this one, and I only saw a couple of good gear placements in the upper half of the climb. Beware of large creaky blocks once you get out of the overhang.

This short but fun pitch climbs past a couple bolts to the large ledge on first buttress. Takes a few pieces of gear to start.

A good and probably often overlooked canyon moderate. Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with one fun section of 5.8 roof.  Start in a right facing corner, move up through a cruxy bulge using face holds and a finger crack to gain a ledge below the roof. Pull the large roof using a hand crack and good foot holds then romp up the corner to the top of the buttress.

From the ledge at the top of A Brief Affair traverse left to 3 bolts diagonalling up to the left most flair on the south face. Clipping the bolt on Double Barrel Shotgun with a long sling helps the belayer catch falls more effectively if done in two pitches. If done in one large pitch (70 m just gets you back to the Brief Affair ledge) do not clip this bolt.

A boulder problem (crux) pulling past the bolts leads to a good rest before a 5.11 climbing with good gear delivers you to a two bolt anchor (no chains currently).

First three bolts added by Pat Dyess.

Climb the stellar broken hand crack on the left side of the face. Take it all the way up past the first ledge. At the second scramble on up to the anchors at the lip or traverse to the rap anchors for the routes on the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in First Buttress