This problem is a super classic, and perhaps the best problem of its grade in Joshua Tree. Essentially Caveman's big, secluded brother. Climb the sustained roof on jams, edges and heel hooks with a dynamic finish on sloper slapping. Some trickery allows you to completely recover before launching into the final sequence. The plastic-trained climber who loves gymnastic moves on relatively large holds will adore this one.

Diary of a Dope Fiend

Sex Magician

Eternal Sunshine

Sex Magician Sit Start

Start in the cave at a jug and move out over the roof to the regular start.

This traverses the left side of the roof. Start from jugs on the left and traverse right, finishing with a crack.

Its been a long time so it is a bit fuzzy but.....

Stand start by any means to get onto the face above the chest high roof. Trend up and right via nice face climbing. Gain a nice muffin on the lip/arete. Mantle onto the slab and top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Alisters Cave