This is a fun route on super rock.  Many options exist to the right of the big cave.  All seem to be in the 5.6 range but may require you to build your own belay.  This is the standard option, which is equipped with bolted anchors at ever pitch.  The second and third pitches are shared by

The Nose

.

P1 - Head up the ledges and cracks to the belay on a large ledge. 60 feet.

P2 - Climb up the crack 130 feet to a belay.

P3 - Run it out to the top on easy terrain (5.4 or less?)  There is a tree 35 feet up from the belay which can be slung, but that's about it.

Right Wing

Smoked Turkey

Pulp Friction

Dark Meat Please

Run, Forest, Run

The Nose of Turkey Rock

Blessings and Dressings

Left Overs

Pilgram's First Feast

P1. The route starts at a big boulder, right off the trail. Scramble     up the boulder and climb straight up to the first pin (15' off the ground). It is unprotected to this point. there is another pin three  feet above the first. Climb up the white colored rock over a bulge. After the bulge, about 30', you will come to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge. Traverse right from here about 40' to fixed anchor.

P2. Climb up 200' placing gear as needed. You pass a two bolt anchor at 130'. Continue climbing the rest of the way. You can walk off or you can scramble down to the left to a chain anchor.

Two single rope rappels to the bottom of

Smoked Turkey

(highly recommended if you can lead 5.10).

P1-Starts beneath a big flake (one bolt). Climb over the flake to ledge. Bolts start again at the end of the ledge. Cool moves up to a chain anchor.

P2-Climb over the mini roof and up to another chain anchor. Two raps from here, or do the route in one pitch and walk off!

Pulp Friction is one pitch slab masterpiece. Do a 5.11 bouldery start at the first two bolts to a ledge, rest, then climb a 5.11 crux between all the other bolts. If you like slab with tiny edges/friction, do it!!!

Dark Meat Please begins in a gently overhanging, left-facing corner with an obvious crack. Stem up to the first bolt with a recommended #1 or #2 cam placement. After clipping the bolt, step onto the upper face with an interesting mantel-style crux. DMP diverges left for a total of 7 bolts and climbs a less-than-vertical friction slab on small edges up a black water streak to an anchor with rings. You can rap the route with a 60m rope, but mind the ends. An easy exit up and right to the standard descent trail is available. Or continue up and left to the top of Turkey Rock clipping one intermediate bolt and finishing on Pilgrims' First Feast.

Pitch 1 takes a BD #1 before the first bolt and a small cam between the first and second bolt. It is an interesting face pitch (.11a) protected by gear and 5 bolts to ananchor.

Pitch 2 continues up the steep prow above (.11d) protected by 6 bolts.

Blessings and Dressings begins as for the description in

Dark Meat Please

and shares the same start. After the first bolt, trend up and right face climbing to an obvious eyebrow and gear placement. Continue up to a shared anchor. An easy exit up and right to the standard descent trail is available. Or continue up and left to the top of Turkey Rock clipping one intermediate bolt and finishing on Pilgrims' First Feast.

This route has a old pin or two and sports a couple distinct slab cruxes. This is a easy toprope while walking down from the summit of Turkey Rock. It finishes on a slab ledge.  25m pitch.

This 3 pitch sport route is a great addition to Turkey Rock. It was put up and named as a first time FA for John Crystal and designed as a perfect 1st multi-pitch route.

P1. 50 feet. 5.6. Climb up steep jugs to a short crux, and belay on a grassy ledge up and slightly right.

P2. 100 feet. 5.6. Make some crux moves up and left from the belay, and follow the bolts through slabs and a small roof. Belay at a slab stance off two bolts.

P3. 100 feet. 5.5. Climb past a overlap, and follow the bolts to the highest point of the formation. Belay off two bolts, and walk off.

The first two anchors have rap rings, and the last anchor have just hangers (now with chains).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turkey Rock