A series of easy mantles up to a two bolt anchor.  A great beginner climb, especially if Rock Land is crowded. It can be led with one cam, but it would be a bit runout.  The rating is 5.5, but if you're tall, I think you might give it a 5.4.  Anyway, it's easy and fun.  Give it a try!

The Ghost Upstairs

Snooze

Olas Negras

Kindergeist

Poltergeist

Nuggets

Black Gold

Brown Smoothies

This route starts at the base of "Ghost Upstairs" and then goes up and left along a dirty-looking ramp/gully.  The climbing looks vegetated and loose but is actually reasonably good.  We did this climb using all clean protection.  Most of the climbing is very easy, 5.3ish, except the last 15 feet over a bulge are about 5.6.  There's one big rock/flake halfway up that seems unsound so beware.  We topped out at the new two-bolt anchor placed Nov '04 for Poltergeist.  We were careful to stay entirely to the right of the Poltergeist line.  The climb is about 40 feet high.  This route would be a good training climb for a novice "trad" leader.  The route can take a wide variety of passive, active, and natural protection.

The first ten feet of the climb are nearly vertical, with incuts and slopers.  After that you'll find jugs and good footholds.  Your first (and only) protection is twenty feet up, so it's a runout with deck potential.  All holds are good ones though.

"Olas Negras" translates to "Black Waves" in English. When you stand at the base of this overhanging climb you'll understand the name. This bolted climb traverses right and is overhanging the entire way.

Poltergeist is located at Cerro Cabrillo between El Dorado and Rockland. It's approximately 20' to 30' left of top rope route, Ghost Upstairs (5.5) (Slater guidebook, pg 48).  El Dorado is approximately 75' to the right (east) and Rockland is approximately 75' behind you (west).

The height of the route is about 40 feet making it one of the longer routes in the immediate vicinity. Route grade estimated to be 5.6 or possibly 5.7.

It has been possible, though not easy, to top-rope this climb in the past using natural protection.  A top rope anchor with two bolts and double rings was installed by John Knight in Nov 2004 and the route was christened "Poltergeist."  The location of the new bolted anchor can be accessed from the top of Ghost Upstairs via a short third class traverse with no bushes to trample and no loose rock.

Rock is solid and sound on the arête, but a little loose 10' to either side of the line shown in the photo. The climbing is fun and just a little challenging.

Begin up the ramp, just left of Black Gold.  Pass 2 bolts (the first may be clipped from the ground).  I found the crux to be clipping the third bolt.  From here, run it out for roughly 25' on easy terrain to the 2-bolt rap anchor (shared with Black Gold).

This 3 bolt route is probably the best route at Cabrillo. Great views, great exposure, good length (about 70') and mostly clean rock. For many, the crux may be getting up to clip the first bolt. To clip the first bolt, step up high on the ramp (left of the climb) then do a little traverse right on a small ledge to get to the bolt. Tall people may find it easy to clip while shorter people may find it a serious runout. The climb is also a bit runout (but easy) between bolts 2 and 3.

On south side of formation, right under the anchors.  This route would have rated higher if it wasn't for the poison oak all over my face afterward.  Watch your rope!

Update 2017: There is no poison oak at the base of the climb. There are a few instances of poison oak on the approach trail and the trail that runs (climber's right) up to the top of the El Dorado formation, but it is avoidable if you cautiously look for it.

Description

Protection

Routes in El Dorado