The original finish to Magellan's Voyage is to traverse right towards the blunted arete. I added a new bolt for the traverse for those looking for the original easier exit. Wish I hadn't added the bolt, it's not as good as the new, direct finish.

Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish)

The Squall Line

Sands of Time

Guilty Pleasure

Captain Weirdbeard Original Start

Ahab's Slab

101 Slab

No Man's Land

Me First Eyepatch

Man Overboard

Hole in the Hull

Captain Longbeard

Heart And Home (Memorial Route)

Magellan's Voyage (direct)

Captain Weirdbeard

Gardyloo

Sailor Jerry's

Rated Arrrgh!

Cthulhu's Reawakening

Land Ho!

Cave Dweller

Magellan's Voyage goes up the separate golden wall on the far left above the ocean. This description is for the newer finish that goes straight up towards the anchors, and skips the original 5.10a rightward traverse

P1. 5.8 Climb "No Man's Land" and stop at the first anchor (two decent old bolts and one new)

P2. 5.10a/b Steep slab with great pockets and edges 5.8-5.10a. Near the top, skip the traverse, and continue straight up with one or two 5.10b moves.

P3. 5.4 R Optional top out pitch. Leave a chord anchor if you'd like to rappel and retrieve it on the hike out.

Recently rebolted with titanium. The original bolts are actually in somewhat decent condition (for now), but they did not protect any of the crux moves. The new bolts are more appropriately located. The old bolts are still there, feel free to clip them or ignore them.

Descent: Belay from the top and do two raps, stopping at the Ahab Slab anchor.

Start on the left side of the main boulder. Clip the first bolt of Ahab Slab long, and move left into the giant hole. At the next bolt, pull through the roof and work your way up a smooth face with awesome features. At the 5th bolt, traverse up and left on a runout 5.0 ramp to the 6th bolt.

Awesome steeply overhanging buckets on the southwest arête. It is only accessible every few years when the sand is high, oh and if you have removable bolts!

This route was an old unfinished and unlisted project that went halfway up the wall and stopped short at a bail biner. The route has finally been continued and is excellent! The route follows some almost runnout climbing on 5.9-5.10 terrain up to a very technical (but well protected) crux sequence on tiny crimps and a minuscule mono.

P1

: 100' Climb "No Man's Land" to the second anchor. (Downclimb to titanium bolts)

P2

: 100' Climb past 8 bolts of increasing difficulty up to a well protected 5.11 crux heading up and LEFT on the headwall. There are some 11- holds far far right of the bolts that always get chalked up. If you take that detour and fall, it will be a rescue for sure! Stick to the bolts.

P3

: 80' Traverse back up and right through 5.9 stemming and over to a 4th class chossy ramp with two bolts.

Descent: Walk off or do two raps down the main wall. 60m rope needed.

The original start to Captain Weirdbeard requires the luckiest of conditions when the sand is high and the tide is low. Gear is funky. Crux is immediately off the sand, easing the higher you go.

This route starts between the two giant holes and follows several bolts up the center wall. Lots of enjoyable steep climbing down low followed by a tricky crux around the 4th bolt. Easier and enjoyable slab follows.

Fun!

Recently rebolted with titanium glue-ins.

Begin on the low angle arete on the far right side of the wall passing two bolts (excellent directionals to make a kid friendly TR). Climb the slab, and then continue up and left towards the anchors for Ahab Slab. The last few moves to the anchor are easy, but a bit far from the bolt.

This awesome pitch traverses from the main boulder out over the beach to access routes on the left wall. The route was originally the unprotected "Are Ye Headed For Davey Jone's Locker," but has been recently bolted with titanium glue-ins and renamed. Follow the finger traverse below the bolts, as traversing the hueco above will leave you runnout above your bolts. Continue all the way to Guilty Pleasure, or stop short at Magellan's Voyage.

Begin on the second bolder and climb a steep, thin face with small pockets. The crux at the third bolt is very technical and the moves are inconspicuous. Be sure to find the hidden clipping stance!

Beta:

Contrary to looks, it is easiest to follow the bolt line directly (you'll see what I mean if you get stuck in the pod on the left). Clip the third bolt from a solid mono to the right of the bolt line. After the 4th bolt (on the ramp), reach high and clip the fifth bolt over the roof. There is an original bolt below the roof that could be used as a confidence clip to protect the easy but intimidating move to the next clip, if you use it, be sure to back clean it or you'll be stopped short by rope drag.

TR route below the anchors for Magellan's Voyage. Only climbable when the sand is high and the tide is low, but a worthy little climb when conditions are right. It begins with slick and thin slab and goes to really unique steep mega jugs.

Hole in the Hull is a really fun top rope that goes up through the hole and follows very enjoyable moves between Ahab Slab and Land Ho. Set the TR by climbing either of the above routes and setting a directional on the last bolt of 101 Slab.

Captain Longbeard is the new continuation above "Captain Weirdbeard" and/or "The Squall Line". The route can be done in three pitches, two pitches, or even one full rope length pitch with 15 draws (bring long draws and slings for drag). Descend via multiple raps.

Possibly the best spot in the area for practicing multi-pitch.

This marvelous route could be the best on the wall. Belay at the first anchor, then pull out of an overhang and traverse above a rail to a glorious pocketed crux. Bolted in memory of Helen Decker, a master of Living Beautifully.

Begin on the left side of the main boulder, clip the first bolt of Ahab Slab, and traverse left to a cruxy exit on the left side of the big hole. Enjoyable climbing leads to another short roof.

Recently rebolted with titanium glue-ins.

This is a new optional top out pitch above both Captain Longbeard and Magellan's Voyage, best done at the end of the day to shorten the hike out. The necessary holds are large and solid, but there is still some crumbly rock around, just climb smart. The first bolt is a little high due to rock quality issues, step up the ramp and reach high for a jug just before the bolt.

"Gardyloo" was the call given in the 17th century when folks would throw poop out the window. The name was very applicable while cleaning off the loose rock.

Begin on the first (smallest) boulder and climb past two bolts on a steep wall and pull the roof on the right side of the little prow and then move slightly right. Choose your difficulty in the first two bolts by climbing left or right of the bolts, 5.8-5.11+

The route was recently bolted with titanium. It pulls the same roof as the absurdly runnout "Jerry's" but was given a more exciting start and finish.

Why was the pirate nervous about this climb? Because it was Rated Arrrgh!

Rated Arrrgh climbs a crack up through the center of the arch, and meets up with Captain Longbeard near the end. Begin the route by following the first few bolts of No Man's Land. Bring lots of slings. Descend with two raps to the ground with a 60m rope, or climb Gardyloo to walk off.

After cleaning off the loose rock, plenty solid gear placements appeared throughout the climb. It can be made safer by scoping the gear placements on TR first, but regardless, it is quite an adventure where you must be experienced with this rock, best for very experienced trad climbers. Place lots of redundant gear and be safe!

NEW UPDATES!

This was originally left as a top-rope to save money, but I finally got it bolted up. It's a great pitch, great variety and very long. Head to the same belay as Magellan's Voyage (now the second anchor on the traverse), then head up and left. Once past the overhang/crux, you'll link into the third pitch of Guilty Pleasure. Clip that bolt with a 48" sling and continue to the top of the wall. Bring some chord for the anchor.

Start on the right side of the big boulder, follow several bolts up a groove. Pull a small roof with a hidden jug and pass a two more bolts to the top.

Recently rebolted with titanium glue-ins.

Cave Dweller starts down in the gap between the second and third boulders, crouch through the depths of the cave to access the belay ledge. Stem up a bit to clip the first bolt, climb back down and climb out of the cave keeping off the rocks behind you. Many say that it may be harder than the original 10b down in the cave.

Very good.

Description

Protection

Routes in High Bluffs