State of Confusion

Knobs to Gumbyland

The Hook Variation

Lizzie Borden

Angling Angels

Mantel Variation

Playing Hooky Var.

Chicken Rodeo

Great Ripoff, The

Schoolroom West

Stone the Crows

The Hook Direct

Movie Variation

Primal Scream

Schoolroom

Bushwhack Crack

Gumbyland

The Rumba

The Bungle

The Scourge

The Hook

Schoolroom Direct Variation

Rising Sun

Heaven's Gate

Talus Food

Hatchet Crack

Chicken Little

Mind Blow

Schoolroom Streak

Schoolroom Chimney

Recess Variation

Cornerstone

Knobcheese

Schoolroom Roof

Callitwhatyouplease

a better finish to knobs, at around the same grade. Step R at the OW to a bolt. Then head up to gluein anchors. (Alternatively, trend R from the original last bolt along a shallow seam to end at a pair of Xenoliths and dyno to a couple more Xenoliths at 11R, but because its a tad escapable and not really in the same vein, i didnt place a bolt.)

Really cool slab moves off knobs.  If you like mantling and thin friction this is for you.

This pitch starts well above the ground, so the question is what do you climb first to get to it.  The way we did it was: 1st pitch: Bushwhack Crack to the chains.2nd pitch: Exposed and runout, but easy traverse left and up until you can get a piece in a crack just above the crux of Mind Blow, and then follow the next 2 bolts up to the anchors.3rd pitch: The Climb ---- Follow a rightward ramp until it ends and then follow the line of 3 bolts up to the anchors on beautiful chickenheads and crystals.  A ladder in a sea of granite.Either do 3 1-rope raps or 2 2-rope raps.

Just barely left of

Hatchet Crack

is

Lizzie Borden

.  It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of

Schoolroom

rappel.  It starts the same as

Hatchet Crack

, and then diverges along a fun ramp.  It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from

The Rumba

as they are in your face.  Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds.  Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in.  2 warnings:  Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).

Climb dihedral toward bush on ledge. Climb slab with 2 bolts and chicken heads to 2-bolt station on low angle slab. Angle slightly left, up tiered slabs, to steep wall with 2 bolts. Crux is chicken head mantel move. Belay at 2-bolt station.

Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts.  If you can climb this climb, then you can mantel.  Very enjoyable, just short.

This interesting variation begins on the Schoolroom Direct crack (5.7 R) then joins the Schoolroom's second pitch (5.6).  Rather than exiting right onto the face toward the second belay, however, continue up the corner, past dark, streaked rock and undercling/lieback leftward out the roof above.  Belay in the vegetated gully using wires or small cams.

From the belay, traverse left on good edges to gain a thin crack; easy, crack-protected slab climbing leads to a short crux below an obvious roof.    Undercling/jam the handcrack as it trends right out the overlap, latch the finishing jug, then rejoin the original Schoolroom just below the prominent Schoolroom Roof.  Traverse left to finish at the tree or link it to the airy, A0 roof above.  A great deal of gardening was required to establish this line; with a bit more traffic, this variation might provide a more direct alternative, especially if there are parties in line for Schoolroom.

This route is below Schoolroom rappel.  It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof.  Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it.  FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.

Just right of Schoolroom Direct Start is a tree filled crack.  Climb this crack (a bit dirty), until you can reach the right-slanting thin crack above the pine tree.  This crack is where the fun begins.  Work up the progressively better rock using this crack until it ends, then step over and left, and follow the two bolts up the steep face to a right-trending groove, which is followed to the ledge system/belay station for Schoolroom pitch 2.  5.10b No!  Granted I wasn't wearing my proper shoes for this type of climb, but that face is thin and IMHO harder than 5.10b.  This compared more to Cheetah, or Punany for difficulty.  It is a shorter sequence than those other two routes but just as difficult.  Bring tough finger tips, good shoes, and as evidenced by the bail gear on bolt 2, bring a head willing to work through a tough sequence.

Schoolroom West is a great multi-pitch route on the left side of the Schoolroom Wall.  This climb is more quality than the standard Schoolroom because it avoids the squeeze chimney and the long traverses.  Climb it in 3 to 5 pitches. Breaking it into 3 pitches is most sensible.

P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks.  Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here).  Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod.  Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.

P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack.  Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary).  Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay).  Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.

P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom.  Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree.  Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right.  It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.

Descent)  Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge.  Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors.  Make a 100' rap down to the ground.  A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.

This route starts up the gully east of Callitwhatyouplease.  Scramble up the gully, until you reach a flake system just before the arete.  Climb up into this flake system, stand on a horn, and clip the bolt.  Make an amazing move onto a chickenhead, and then continue up easier grooves, past one more bolt, and then across a very easy but slightly runout face.  The last bolt can be easily clipped from this face and then figure out the tough moves past this bolt on an exfoliating arete.  The rock quality here sucks (evidence of the popularity of this route) but given the right sequence the steep secion can be climbed tenuously.  Then run it up to Callitwhatyouplease's anchors.  This route has 2 distinct cruxes, both are well worth it.

Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often.  Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected.  Very thin and still flakey.  After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement.  2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility.  Run it out again to the rappell anchors.

This pitch is a really good way to finish Schoolroom or Schoolroom West.  From the tree belay below the last pitch of either of those route, climb up and right to the gorgeous overhanging dihedral.  Jam and smear under the roof and around the corner - tenuous 5.8 but really well protected.  Jam the handcrack above until you get to some jugs, at which point it is low 5th class to the belay tree.

Thin face climbing past a handgerless stud bolt then two more bolts. Hard.

This is a classic trad route with lots of variety. All natural belay stations so be prepared with cordelette or slings for setting up your belay anchors.

Pitch 1. Start on the left side of the wall and climb over a large flake up cracks that angle up to the left. About 40 feet up, traverse across to the right, downclimbing at one point. Pro is abundent, but be sure to think about protecting your partner. Put a set of opposing pieces at the bottom of the downclimb. Belay at the end of the traverse.

Pitch 2. Climb the handcrack, moving onto the face to the right before you get up under the roof. Some large pieces are useful here. Traverse right 10 feet to the belay.

Pitch 3. Follow the pretty finger crack up and left to the belay on a prow sticking out in front of a tree. Small cams or nuts work well. If you need to bail at this point, traverse right 20 feet to a set of bolted anchors at the start of the Hook.

Pitch 4. Follows a tight chimney up under the huge Schoolroom roof. Hard to protect with standard pieces and a pretty awkward squeeze. Good pro at the top of the chimney before the easy traverse to the left, passing under the roof. I found the pro on the traverse to be pretty marginal but the climbing is easy. Belay from the tree.

Pitch 5. Climb straight up from the belay tree through a gully with sweet hand cracks. Walk for part of the gully and just 10-15 past a big dead tree lying down, you'll see a set of chains to belay from.

Scramble or rappel down to the belay tree with lots of webbing. From here it's a 60' rap to the "Schoolroom rappel" chains, and then another 90' rap to the ground.

Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall.  It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up.  The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!

P1)  5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck.  Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay.  The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge.  Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.

P2)  5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up.  Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head.  Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.

Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face.  Rap 100' down to the deck.

Crux is about half way up. A nice pitch to add to Schoolroom.

This climb follows the arete atop hatchet crack. Anyone that has climbed hatchet has noticed the killer chicken heads on this arete. This arete just begs to be climbed, those chicken heads are pretty nice. Start with a few low angle slabular moves then follow chicken heads past a few more bolts. There are some long reaches to good chicken heads. The climb generally mellows the higher one climbs but near the end it turns very slabby. This is the crux of the climb and is well protected and is only a couple of moves.

Start on

Callitwhatyouplease

or

Chicken Little

.

Continue up or down

Bushwhack Crack

.

Climb into the Green Adjective Gully.  On the right (west-facing) wall, just after a slippery 3rd class chimney problem, is this wall.  The climb kind of scrambles up a ledge, and then it moves right and climbs a small chimney to a ledge.  From here the real climbing begins.  This climbs the grooves left of the nice big chickenhead, right at an overhang.  Climb the 1st groove, pull a lieback, and a toe jam, then move to the left groove, and make another thin move or two, then wander right avoiding the final goove that turns horizontal at the end.  Because of it's possible unprotectability, this climb makes an awsome warm-down climb after doing a larger climb that requires Schoolroom Rappel.

The Hook starts a few pitches off the ground, with a variety of starts possible.  The climb protects pretty well, but an ugly swinging fall is possible on the slabby crux traverse after leaving the crack.  To approach the Hook, I recommend the following:

P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8

P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear.  Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6

P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse.  Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8

P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack.  It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5

Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground.  From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn.  One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station.  Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.

This is a superb way to start Schoolroom, but it is much harder than anything else on that route.  Climb the steep gorgeous finger and hand crack about 40' right of the regular Schoolroom start.  At the end of the crack, a few spooky moves left on friction gain the regular route.  I didn't think this was very R rated, but it wouldn't be fun to fall on the insecure friction moves.

Rising Sun is wicked hard seam to climb and protect. It is rarely climbed (It split me off after the fixed gear). One needs to bring their A game to this climb.

This route branches off near the top of Callitwhatyouplease and keeps on going. TC's rating these spicy slab moves only 5.8 is either testament to his slab skills or my lack thereof. With that said, this is fun and challenging LCC slab climbing. Perhaps others have wondered what this climb was in this popular area. Worth doing.

Pitch #1: Climb Callitwhatyouplease and just before the anchor, veer off left (west) up steep slab speckled with sparse chickenheads and belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.8/9, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up into runout terrain passing some great classic knobs and a broken up section to a two-bolt belay. 5.8+, 20m.

Pitch #3: Again, climb straight up and avoid rope drag with placements until reaching some "thank god" bolts that intersect a smooth slab with mostly tiny chickenheads on very good granite. Pass some horizontal placements and cool moves to the end of the slab. 5.10?, 35m.

From here, we traversed left and continued up a slender fin. These upper pitches may be a part of another route, but the 3rd bolt up a fin of a slab was distinguished by an older Metolius Rap Hanger with a new SS bolt. Bold and stout.  5.10ish,

Just left of Bushwhack Crack, is an impossible looking face, with a spattering of chickenheads.  A relatively easy beginning leads to an extremely thin face sequence, then on to an even more difficult mantle to attain the 2nd bolt.  From here the climbing gets harder, I couldn't tell as that mantle was all she wrote for me.  To be continued...

Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge.  You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right.  Watch for the crack.  It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead.  It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist.  In other words a good varied crack.  Very enjoyable.

Mind Blow

is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to

The Hook

).

The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of

The Hook

. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for

Bushwhack Crack

, then about the same to the ground.

This line was drilled by hand on lead.

Start from the top of

The Mantel

. Climb right edge of block. Continue straight up black water streak protected by bolts. Belay on ledge with 1 piton and 1 bolt about 130' above ground. Continue straight up more bolt-protected face to bush belay on Schoolroom.

This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb.  Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route.  Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above.  It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack.  A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings.  Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.

Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.

Just left of the 4th pitch Squeeze chimney is a face with 2 bolts.  Climb this face on thin patina.  Pretty flaky rock, so be careful, as it obviously doesn't get climbed much.  This gives another way to add variety to Schoolroom.

The free line zigzags up to the tree belay area of Schoolroom.

Climb the first three pitches of Schoolroom as normal (or two pitches if you do Schoolroom Direct through the handcrack) to the large bushy ledge directly under the roof.

Two options now exist, I prefer the second:(1)  Climb the wide dihedral as normal, traverse halfway across the slab to the finger crack, up crack to the roof and start aiding.  After the roof, free-climb (5.6) up the crack to the large tree.  This option is almost a full rope length, causes lots of rope drag, but provides the best communication.

(2)  As above, in two pitches.  First, a short pitch up the wide dihedral, belay at the beginning of the traverse.  This option has very little rope drag, but has impossible communication, so I recommend rope signals (or radios).

The aid section traverses more than it rises, so I recommend the second aid through it while being belayed by the leader (as opposed to jugging).

Descent: the Schoolroom Rappel.

I also recommend climbing this route at night!

Callitwhatyouplease is the next major crack system right of the obvious Bushwhack Crack.  The crack doesn't touch the ground, so it is necessary to climb for 30 feet or so through hollow flakes.  Pro can be placed, however, making the opening safe.

Climb through the flakes, then traverse right to the main crack system.  Follow this all the way until a set of chains.  On the way, a couple of pitons are encountered, and then the crack widens to make the 5.8 crux.  Another touchy move up top brings one to the top.

Rap with one rope (60m) down the gully to the right.  It might also reach straight down the face, but I am not sure.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Schoolroom Area