Back before bouldering was a thing there were pure mantle problems. This is like one of those. Starting on finger jugs, make one move up to the bucket at the lip (may need cleaning). From there just stand up. Easier said than done. Holds buried under the dirt and pine needles back from the lip are off. As someone once said, "No, I don't want no scrub."

Just Stand Up

Sabertooth Moose Lion

Scarier Mantelow

Dean So Mean

Just getting warmed up

Stand start and move left into the finger crack to an easy top out. Don't get your fingers eaten. "Real" boulderers may choose to avoid the crack.

An eliminate. Climb straight up from the start of Moose Lion to the slopey lip and make the hard mantle without using the crack or holds on the left of the dihedral.

Starting on finger jugs make a big move into the crack. Hero jugs lead to a puzzling and difficult mantle.

Sit start with both hands jammed in the crack between the main slab and the vertical face on your right.  Head right, up the short vertical face and out.

Visible from the road, this is the steeply overhanging outcropping that’s the closest to Reed Brook and the lower roadside parking.  Steeply overhanging faces up to about 12’-16’, and slab above the lip.  You’ll want to bring at least 2-3+ pads for the overhanging problems, which are mostly fairly challenging.

 There is some evidence of at least one route climbed here previously, several years ago. Corrections and additional information is welcome.

Description

Protection

Routes in Reed Brook Roof