A hard start for the grade. Can cheat start to the right a few feet and cut back left on a ledge a few feet up. The direct start is the route, however. About 30 feet up, cut left on a fortuitous hand traverse, bushwack around some bushes, and follow a nice corner up and to the top.

Sisyphus

Jack Be Nimble

Noah's Arc

Ode to a Newt

Gollum's Stairwell

Black Gate

Over the Rainbow

Swords of Zanzibar

Advice From A Caterpillar

Fractured Fairy Tale

Mother Goose

Cirith Ungol

Old Number Nine

Oz Before The Wizard

Horner's Corner

This route has a little bit of everything; chimney, lie back crack, face, and slab.  There is no defined crux of the route; it's all 5.5.  This would be a good 2nd route for a new leader but there is some slab climbing without much pro.

A tricky climb!  Fist crack in a dihedral leads to a wide roof crack.  Pull this to mellow climbing above and finish out on a perfect hand crack.

This route wasn't in the original Pagel North Shore guidebook. It was added to the Mike Farris guidebook.    It shares a start and end with Horner's Corner. Just after the small tree perhaps 15-20 feet up, veer left up the "trough". Where the trough ends traverse back right to join Horner's corner at the crux, right where the V-slot is.

This is the face just left of Old Number Nine.  Pretty straight forward climbing up well featured rock.  A fun romp on toprope after you've led Old Number Nine.

The first route on the left hand side of the crag...this is pure squeeze chimney offwidth and is a bitch to protect.  Slither up the chimney to easier climbing above.

(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top" 

  Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack  first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a  wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!

A finger crack in a dihedral leads up to a small roof.  Pull this then head right to a crack and an A shaped alcove.  Above this are a pair of cedar trees growing out of a crack (be nice to them).  Climb the crack to the top.  Pretty sustained and great exposure for the region.

Crack to the right of Cirith Ungol.  Start this from the ledge or the ground and stick to the left hand crack.  Great lead that eats gear!  Solid fingers to hands.

The large tree that used to mark the route fell over so we started off by standing on the log near the base (the tree is in the way of the rock).    Wander up the rock finishing by traversing to the finger crack from the right.    More fun than I thought it would be.

The obvious broken jagged chimney/off-width just right of Jack Be Nimble.  Worm your way up this and either finish on the hand crack or Jack Be Nimble or munge straight up.

A thin continuous crack starting from a ledge behind a dead tree.  Strenuous!

Follow a low angle crack/ledge system that diagnals up left from a leaning block to a more vertical fist crack.  Easy lead...

All the business on this climb comes in the first 15 feet then it's easy sailing!  Tricky finger and jam crack leads to a somewhat discontinuous crack system that seems to just go on forever!  As you get up near the top, look behind you for a surprise view of Lake Superior.  Eats gear the whole way!

This route is a good warmup lead. The crux is at the small roof that marks the start of the dihedral.

This is a great area that is often over looked.  Climbs are up to 120 feet and include ratings from 5.5 to 5.12.  This is a trad area.  Classics include Jack Be Nimble, Over the Rainbow, Cirith Ungol, and Swords of Zanzibar.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone