Wind in the Willows (1st anchor)

Wind in the Willows

Subatomic

Rage

Chronic

Salamander Slayer

Copernicus

Biohazard

Spaceballs

Caffeine Junkie Variation

Buehler's Day Off

It’s a Crime

Atomic Rage

Dust in the Wind

Dark Matter

Galileo

Bust a Gut

Planet X

Gin and Juice

al-Shatir a.k.a Copernicus Direct

Atomic Stargazer

Atomic Gecko

Galileo Left

Planetarium

Planet Y

Aristotle

Bubonic

this route shares the start of wind in the willows, then angles left and up to the arete.  climb the arete (shared with eclipse) on the steep side past lots of bolts, sidepulls, and some fun cruxes.

This climb is very good! The first part is 11d, the second part adds a difficult crux and is quite sustained, at 12d.

The crux is particularly hard to onsight as you can't see where to go... It helps to make a battle plan from the last rest.

A fantastic route that climbs FAR better than it looks and begins in the obvious chimney/groove weakness.  Climb up through steep sections along a variety of bolt-protected crack climbing.  A variety of stems, jams, and face climbing with ample rests will bring you to the anchor 35 meters later.  This route is a FULL 35 meters, so make sure you tie knots in the ends.  Great warmup.

This is a good route with fun, dynamic movement through the lower portion followed by technical, demanding climbing right before the chains.

It is marred by some chipped/glued holds through the crux, and that's why I assigned this route 2 stars instead of the 3 it would deserve otherwise. I can see why this was done, as without them the route would have a vHard boulder problem above 5.11+ climbing.

A right-leaning crack with relatively easy entry climbing to a higher first bolt than its harder partner to the left, Galileo. Some grainy jamming could be useful, so plan your kit accordingly. A worthy route with unique style overshadowed by others at the cliff.

Folks have noted a "sketchy flake" on this around bolt four, but it seemed solid enough to me. A helmet is never a bad idea, but this route was put up in 1994 and the holds have definitely been tested by now.

Start at the bolt line to the right of dark matter, the same line as rage.  At the third bolt, veer into the large recess and head up through the roof.  Follow the obvious line of bolts as the crack goes in and out and slants to the right.  Use a 70m on this one.

Start in the big chimney right of Biohazard. Easy stems lead to a bouldery sequence over the bulge. Get a good rest and prepare for hard face climbing to an easier but somewhat sporty finish.

This route is between Atomic Gecko and a small recess to the right. The climb is gently overhanging from beginning to end. Climb on good holds past the first few bolts, then make a big reach right (a big wingspan helps). Transfer over into this other crack and make some strenuous liebacking past another bolt before getting a rest. A short section of easier climbing leads to the anchor.

This climb would get more stars if it were longer.

Climb the first 5 bolts of Rage. Move right to a lone bolt and the last bolt of Atomic Gecko.

25m up canyon from Atomic Gecko and just before the canyon opens up to the Big Horn wall there is a thin desperate crack on the left. Bolts protect bouldery moves through the bottom. a desperate dihedral leads to a stance and final roof crack. bring several pieces for the roof crack. one bolt protects the final crack moves.

Harder than it looks face climbing leads to a great arête.

Climb most of Atomic Gecko then traverse left into the business of Rage. Good Enduro climbing marred by the chipped pockets on Rage.

Start on Planetarium. At bolt 8, instead of cutting right to the original anchor, continue up the steep seam (4 new bolts). After some desperate moves with little rest, the route joins with the original Wind in the Willows 1st anchor (13a). Clip the Wind in the Willows extension 1st draw and shake out. Finish on the Wind in the Willows extension. The combined climbing of the 1st anchor (13a) and wind in the willows extension (12d) make this route feel like a solid 13b pitch. The climbing, excellent rock quality, and the fact that it links together 2 of the best routes on the wall will inevitably make this a mega classic hard line on the wall. Enjoy!

The route starts off a boulder just right of the crack in the middle of the wall "Sub Atomic" 10d and just left of "Rage" 12c which is also the shared start for "Salamander Slayer" 11d. A bouldery start leads to basically a no-hands where you head up and left into a clean blank headwall. Several hard cruxes lead to one final difficult heart break crux before the anchor. Probably the red point crux.

Start on a Right Trending Layback Crack-Seam just Left of Chronic (12a). Desperate but excellent liebacking for ~60 feet (13a) to a huge rest. Then finish the climb on the headwall above to 35m (11c).

Climb Planetarium (12a) via the new direct start. After the open shut anchor continue up clipping bolts and do a desperate boulder problem crux followed by a rest. Then 2 more bolts of endurance 5.12 to an anchor at ~30m. Great rock quality and just right of the Wind in the Willows extension. Just a bit harder though.

Climb Chronic (or could be done from either Galileo start). Instead of clipping anchor, clip a bolt and continue up above chronic anchor. A fun bouldery move off the anchor leads you left in the the big chimney. Continue up the chimney, stemming, kneebar, and crack climbing. 7 bolts additional above chronic anchor. Anchor at 35m.

A direct start to Copernicus.  Starting on an obvious triangle jug on the arete (jump start or lean in from some boulders), climb four bolts of powerful, core-intensive moves up pinches and underclings on the steep arete left of the chimney which is the original start to Copernicus.  Merge with Copernicus at a good but strenuous stem rest at the fifth bolt.  It's around 5.13- to the stem rest/fifth bolt and a fun and worthy climb in its own right, though likely harder for shorter folks.  Traversing rightwards out of the bolt line and deeper into the chimney at the fifth bolt is off route.

The climbing on the direct start is fairly unique for Pine Creek - steep and bouldery, on bigger holds, with lots of pinching on the arete and using holds on both sides of it.  al-Shatir climbs the entirety of the 5.13 section of Copernicus, and adds in additional 5.13 climbing, but is broken up by a fairly good if leg-intensive rest.  While definitely harder than doing the original chimney start, for now I am leaving the grade as 5.13+ until consensus is reached.  Regardless of grade, this is a very fun way to start a great route.

Ibn al-Shatir was a 14th century astronomer from Damascus, in present-day Syria, whose work influenced that of Copernicus.  More background can be found here:

adsabs.harvard.edu/full/200…

and

http://articles.adsabs.harvard.edu//full/2007HisSc..45...65R/0000065.000.html.

A quality linkup of a bunch of good rock and nice movement. Start on Atomic Gecko. After the 4th bolt traverse right, into and through the crux section of Biohazard. From the anchor of Biohazard make big moves up and right to join Copernicus at the bucket shelf. Shake out and finish up Copernicus.

This is a classic for the area and it is ON you from the start.  The climbing is pretty thuggy, but there is just enough technical climbing to keep you focussing on your footwork as well.  You will not be disappointed when you rope up for this one.

Venture left at bolt 5 to the neighboring anchors to climb the variation known as Atomic Rage (12d).

Start in a giant chimney Right of Copernicus (13c) and Left of Galileo (13a), which is the direct start. Climb up the Big Chimney (5.9) which merges into Galileo and shares the same ending up the headwall (11c) to an anchor at 35m.

Tackle a boulder problem directly off the ground leading to a stance on a ledge.  From the stance, launch into thin and insecure face climbing. A hard sequence guards the shuts.

Historical Note:  Originally, the route began on  "Wind in the Willows" and immediately traversed a slopey ledge system over the creek to a high first bolt (somewhat sketchy).  Patrick O'donnell added the direct start in 2015 which makes the route much nicer.

Start on Planetarium 12a. Climb to the original cold shut anchor. Keep going and clip a bolt just above the anchor. instead of going left into Planet X 13b, continue up and right following the crack system. Clip 5 more bolts to an anchor at 35m. sustained 5.11 climbing but combined with the first pitch of planetarium 12a it probably feels more like 12b overall. super fun climbing.

Start on Biohazard 12a. At the 4th bolt continue up the crack to 35m.

This route is immediately left of the big left-facing corner.

A burly lieback up the edge of the crack/groove leads to a crux move off an undercling. Then some more strenuous climbing along the arching crack. The grade assumes that the wall to the right is off. If you stem, the route is probably somewhere in the 5.11 range.

You can also toprope this route by soloing the easy 5th class chimney in the corner.

Description

Protection

Routes in Planetarium / Gecko Wall