Probably not the most sought after fabled creature, but still a good route for those strong 5.10 climbers who want to get exposed to one or two five eleven moves. Decent climbing at the beginning gets you up to a neat crux that requires power, precision and the ability to ignore the siren's call of what appear to be easy holds.

Mermaid

Jackalope

Unicorn

Incubus

Sasquatch

Centaur

Pixie

Cyclops

Get on this climb! A strange start on black rock leads to a ledge that leads to a finger-cracking layback that involves fingertips, to fingertips, to aching fingertips, to finally a nice finishing jug.

A crazy-looking chimera of pockets, crimps and the occasional jug that accumulates into a sustained pump-fest that is much harder than it seems.  

  Not a mild-manner beast!  

  This is a punchy route with more than one crux requiring complex beta and super-human strength. Intense all the way to the anchors thanks to the humongous pump factor and hidden holds. 

  GET ON THIS ROWDY RODENT! Feels like 5.12 and redpoints at 11+ if you redpoint at all.

Monos, monos, monos and more monos on steep terrain. It takes more than a few apples to tame this beast.

An Incubus, is a fabeled creature from the middle ages. They were male demons, which would apparently show up in the middle of the night, in order to get busy with women who claimed to be sound asleep. I guess this not only makes them the original booty call from hell, but if you've ever seen pictures of women from the middle ages, my gut instinct tell me that these horny dudes were also chubby chasers. 

  Seriously though, if there is a 5.12a in Spearfish Canyon that does not deserve four or five stars, this would be it. However, I am here to be a cheerleader, not a critic.  

  The only reason I'm not too down with this route is due to the fact that it handed me my ass and the falls I took caused me to slam painfully into the rock. This climb is not only physically demanding, it is also very beta intensive, and believe me, the first go more than likely won't be a fun time.  

  However, the eternal optimist in me wants everyone to know that it's a great route to project (if you like punishment), I'm sure it will make you strong and I'm quite certain things might go better for you if you head to the blonde rock to the left of the bolts instead of trying to follow the bolt line like I did.  

  However, with that said, please be advised that this is truely a 5.12a for 5.12+ climbers and the rides on this thing can get pretty fat and ugly...just like chicks the Incubus apparantly goes for. But then again, that's just a mean thing to say.

Burly climbing that seems to remain sustained in a power-endurance kind of way. Like its namesake creature, the finishing holds are elusive. Don't get suckered out right or you'll be taking a beatin' for messin' with Sasquatch!

This is one technical little bitch! Start on a flat, white rock that is lodged up against two birch trees. Grab onto two monos in a very precise way and head left to a hidden two finger pocket that may or may not be there. 

  After getting your dainty feet set up on a thin ledge, prepare to do more choreographed moves than those skinny legged bitches on "A Chorus Line". 

  THIN AND TECHNICAL! Every sequence and move requires a thinking cap and a ballerina finesse. The pump really hits ya about three fourths of the way up when the holds get bigger, but are still out of reach and still hidden. 

  Probably impossible to onsight unless you climb like a girl or have a pair of wings sprouting from your beefy back. Red points at 5.11b after many, many, many attempts and heartbreaks. 

  If you are looking for an 11b that won't eat up your entire vacation something like "Oh That Smell" might be more up your alley. However, if you love routes that require physical prowess, precision and well-thought out feats of strength then this is your girl. Otherwise check out the following link Oh that smell

A power endurance route with a few technical sequences. This one will make give you tunnel vision and a good workout. Hint! The biggest pockets aren't always the best.

The Fabled Creatures Wall is a great warm-up wall before heading down the hill to the Courthouse. Most routes are vertical and well featured, making for some fun 5.10+/11- climbing.

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Routes in Fabled Creatures Wall