It's best to do this route in two pitches or the rope drag will be bad.

Pitch 1: liebacking and finger jamming with judicious footwork follows the right trending seam to the route's crux (11a or b I think: could be harder or easier, I can't tell anymore), a wicked pinky finger jam (tape the right pinky and ring finger recommended) and reach for a good pocket.  Swing out right and up the pockets till back in the crack.  A reachy crossthrough up and left leads to steep but easy pockets proceeding to a ledge and a three bolt semi-hanging belay. A physical pitch.

Pitch 2: step right and then up pockets that get sparser and thinner as you proceed.  Around the 5th bolt, a wild smearing crux (10a or b) up and left gets you stood up in a dish.  Regain composure and smear/edge right, then up.  Thin edging and some pockets lead to a 3 bolt semi-hanging belay up there in space.  A cool, intricate face/smearing pitch. Some people have expressed the opinion that the second pitch is harder than the first pitch.

Can rappel to the ground from the top with a 70m rope.  With a 60m rope you can rappel from the top to the first belay (rings installed) and then to the ground.

For personal reasons, mainly in overcoming neurological problems (I was paralyzed from the neck down for several months the year before with Guillan-Barre Syndrome), I feel this is the best route I've put up in the Sinks.

Requiem for a Nun

Fabel Routes

New Pony

Celine's Cat

True Sailing is Dead

Surfing for Perverts

Stone Moses

US Blues

Ice Cream for Crow

Summer's Ready When You Are

Rosin Up the Bow

Ruby Tuesday

Emperor of The Sky

I can't resist a slab or songs by The Breeders.  This is a fun and very well protected slab, short by Aspen Grade standards. There's an interesting three finger layaway move at the 3rd bolt and the crux is around the 4th bolt, some delicate smearing steps to the left. Mostly good little pockets everywhere.

Three routes uphill from True Sailing are three routes (I was told) the Fabels put up previous to our efforts.  From left to right they are 5.7 (nice route), 5.7 (needs cleaning, not so nice at present) and a longish 5.7+ (OK-needs some cleaning).

Hard but good pockets from the start lead to a wicked dead point (crux) at the second bolt laying away from a undercling pocket to a good pocket up and left. Thence up and back sltly right and up to the first anchor.  Pumpy. Can continue to top anchor on Ice Cream for Crow--easy slab to a 10b finish.  A 60m rope will get you back down from the top.

A few 5.8 moves off the ground lead to easier pockets to the first anchor.  Above is the crux pitch--increasingly difficult to a steep wave at the top with shallow pockets.  A 60m rope will get you down from the top anchor.  About 16-18 clips.

A long route (30m) with a lot of varied types of climbing and quite a fun ramble.  Crux is probably in the first 30 feet but a couple of strange bulges up higher are interesting.  No intermediate anchor.

The name is a line from a Doors song from 1969 called Horse Latitudes.  I used to listen to this a lot as a highly disaffected teenager......

To the first anchor is a easy 5.5 slab, originally done by the Fabels.  Above is our extension, a strange press up while underclinging a couple of fingery holds (first crux) is negotiated a ways above the first anchor.  At the top, a  very exposed feeling high step/iron cross maneuver (second crux) enables a reach to a nice jug and the anchor.

Next right from New Pony, very thin and techy pockets and crimping for 25 feet (crux) to a good pocket, then back left in good pockets and up to first anchor.  Can continue up easy slab to the 10b finish on Ice Cream for Crow.

Pitch 1: Fun, well protected pitch, crux near top, ends on a small ledge. 5.6.

Pitch 2: Work up onto the top of the flake next to the first pitch anchor. Rather thin to the third bolt, then easier. Jug hauling after the 4th bolt to the anchor. 5.10a.  The flake before the anchor looks dangerous but I yarded on it extensively and it didn't move or grind.

Looks hard when standing at the base but actually is one of the most enjoyable routes here with great pockets and a fun slab to the first anchor.  The 5.8 crux is the first bit to where it kicks back onto the slab.  Above the first anchor go a bit left and up to the 10b finish.  A 60m rope will get you down from the top anchor.

Dihedral has some difficult sections as it steepens, then a crux bulge/throw to a good edge.  Pretty physical, but a decent rest just before the crux bulge. The crux throw at the bulge is pretty spicy, at least for these old guys. Recommend belaying off the nice ledge at the top as its edge would not be nice to a rope.  Clipping the last bolt before the ledge avoids the edge for the second.

The name is a line from a song by The Band--Rag Mama Rag.

Pitch1: Fun climbing up the right side of the pillar leads to it's flat top.  Work up and left past several bolts (10a) to a cave feature. Stem around this interesting hole on easier ground and up to the 2 bolt belay.

Pitch2: The first 30 feet of this pitch is not terribly wonderful. About 5.5 or 5.6 lower angle foolishness leads to an amazing offset seam on the right side of the arete above.  This seam is stellar with 2-3 5.10 sections.  When the seam runs out, fantastic and steep good edges and three finger pockets (only 5.9) lead over the top bulge to the anchor.  Very very airy, absolutely cool and worth working through the first section of the pitch.

A 60m rope will not get you down from the top, you'll need to do 2 rappels. A low angle area immediately above the first belay may have some dust and small stones that may be pulled down when you pull the top rappel.  Kristi and I experienced a little dust but nothing dangerous. You can scope it out when you come down. You should always be wearing a helmet anyway, but I'm just warning you.

"...There's no time to lose, I heard her say. Catch your dreams before they slip away..."  The Stones

Three pitches total.

P1: do the first pitch of Ruby Tuesday (10a).

P2: step down and left from the Ruby Tuesday belay and scoot around the corner then up for 25 ft (class 4) to the belay anchor at base of the big gold dihedral.

P3: climb the dihedral (10a/b) to top 3 bolt hanging belay anchor.

Rappelling back to second anchor could be problematic as the dihedral leans so far over left.  Can rappel to the ground from top with 70m rope. Can rappel to the first belay of Requiem for a Nun and down from there with a 60m rope.

Fingerlocks, liebacking and underclings with a couple of hand jams, poor feet in places.  Trad climb with bolt protection.

Crux is around the second to the fifth bolt, then there's a rest. However, the whole pitch is quite sustained and you'll be pumped by the anchor. I'm calling it 10a/b but it feels like an old school 5.9 in the Valley. Old memories of old terrors I guess.

I think this is the best single pitch on Aspen Grade Wall to date...really an outstanding piece of work.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Aspen Grade Wall