A three pitch all gear protected crack climb at Pinnacles? Yep, hard to believe but it exists and it's pretty dang fun. So if you have friends that think all the climbing at Pinnacles is face climbing with bolts drag them up to this route.

Pitch 1) Climb up a 5.6 chimney/gulley with twin cracks taking care not to pull down any loose stuff. When the cracks stop and the lichen appears traverse left across reddish colored rock and do a step across move. Continue up through the tree to a good ledge with a fixed piton.

Pitch 2) Start liebacking (5.8) up the corner with the wide crack. Continue to a small ledge underneath a wide orangish crack/roof with a lot of Condor poop. Belay here on large cams

Pitch 3) Traverse out right on the face to avoid standing on the rotten loose poop covered rock and then cut back left into the corner and follow the sweet 5.7 lieback to the top!

Pitch 2 and 3 are both short enough that is feasible to link them with 60 meter rope. This might require a little thought w/extending placements with slings and extra cams.

Liebacker's Lullaby

Tato Pani

Don't Talk Back

Shoot the Tube

Splatter Matt

Split Infinity

The first pitch starts up a black water streak with 5.8 climbing on excellent rock  past one bolt to a  water chute with a bolt protected 5.9 crux to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

The second pitch continues with 5.6 climbing on lesser quality rock to the top.

This route shares the same start as the route Yakety Yak.  Climb a short corner that protects with gear on decent  rock 20ft to a bolt. From the small ledge just past the bolt it is possible to go left (Yakety Yak route) or right.  Continue right and stem up a water chute protected by two bolts to a seam.  Follow the seam to your right which eventually turns into a crack that uses 2"-4" gear.  At the end of the crack traverse left to the anchor.

This route follows a very tubelike water chute which eventually turns into a flared chimney. Because of the varying steepness and width of the chute a combination of stemming and chimneying skills are beneficial.

A mantle to start, then three bolts of face climbing to a steeper section over a bulge to the 'anchor'.

Rock quality is quite poor.  My friend fell three times pulling over the bulge because holds broke.

A wild and exposed climb up a deep waterchute. Has everything from easy stemming up a halfpipe to overhanging face climbing.  As the chute widens there are good rests, as it narrows there are exciting mantels. And a squeeze at the top.

Rock quality is good at the center of the route, but rock (if it can be called that) can be quite loose to the sides (careful when stemming).  Belayer definitely needs a helmet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Yaks Wall