Super easy climbing following a vertical crack through many horizontal cracks and seams leads to a couple of 5.8 face moves at the top.

Steppes of Central Asia

Red Headed Steppe Child

Box Lunch

Just Hold Still

Trip to Iraq

Passion for a Thrashin'

Just for Funzies

Sportin' A Woody

Self Abuse

This is good old fashioned chimney route, and is just to climbers left of Steppes of Central Asia. The rock is solid, and the climbing is good. Two rappel bolts are found on the summit, which is to the climbers right of the route.  The R rating reflects the need for very large cams (5-6 inches), if one wishes to fully protect the route. Even with two 4 inch cams, a ground fall is possible. Nevertheless, the chimney felt secure to me.

Just climber's right of Steppes of Central Asia, and left ofBox Lunch is this nice chimney/crack, which protects and climbs reasonably well. Rock quality is good. Given the location, I am guessing it has been previously climbed, but could not find any info. Vivien Lee and I climbed it on 6/17/20. Standard rack to #4 cam.

Left side of the main buttress on the right-most face of Asian Wall.  There's one bolt, but this is basically a trad route.  Shares anchors with Just Hold Still and Self Abuse, so can be done as a top rope with directional.

Line runs up the middle of the right-most face of Asian Wall, just to the left of Self Abuse.  A good top-rope as it shares anchors with Box Lunch & Self Abuse (use a directional for easiest belay)

On the south end of

Lower Decadent - Asian Wall

, one will see a face between 2 distinct chimneys/squeeze chimneys.  This face will be split every 15 feet or so by a pair of twin horizontal cracks (ie. face for 15 feet 2 horizontal cracks, 15 more feet of face, 2 more horizontal cracks). Climb this face utilizing the cracks for protection, at the 3rd set cross right into the chimney/crack system.  Continue to the top.  Beware of gritty rock down low.

Pitch 1: Climb the right crack (as seen in photo), and belay in boulders (20-30 feet, 5.6)

Pitch 2: Climb South Ridge to main summit of Asian Wall, and belay from chains on summit.

(80 feet, 5.3)

We broke it into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag

This route is at the *far* Southern end of the Asian wall such that there could not possibly be any routes further to climbers right.  Directly above the wooden fencepost that begins the barbed-wire (in a grassy area by site 58) are two bolts followed by a horizontal crack with good finger/small hands gear.  This is the route.  No fixed anchors at the top.  The route is short, but it's actually pretty good as a protected highball boulder problem with a slight chance of an anal-enima by fencepost.  Worth doing if you are in the area and waiting for the longer climbs to open up.

A nice route with protection where you need it.  Much more enjoyable than clipping a bolt by a naturally protectable feature, which is how this route would be bolted today.  The crux is at the start and the vertically challenged could find this route PG-13 reaching the first bolt at 15 feet, not to mention considerably harder getting off the ground.  Once the petina feature is reached however, the climbing becomes much easier to the bolt.  The most enjoyable part of this route is finding the incut holds almost completely invisible from below.  Shame to the hangdogger that ticked all the holds a couple weeks ago.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Decadent - Asian Wall