Basically the same as Dennis's

Corner Groveling

, but stick to the crack with gear and stop at the bolted anchor before heading out horizontal roof up top.

A large pod you can fit in, followed by being forced out of the crack, and some nice hands/thin hands to finish before stepping out to the anchors.

Single rack.  We placed a 5 and it was fine, but would have rather had a 6.

Tasty Waves

Prime Directive

Tarzan

Master Plan

Foxy Dance

Voodoo Cherry Bomb

Radical Bastard

Irish Spring

Corner Groveling

Fox Trot

Moorcroft City Slicker

Photon Torpedo

Belgium Chocolate Waltz

Sugar Crack

Ancient History

Ancient History was the route chosen BITD or at least attempted?  One rusted army ring angle piton was in the short crack down low.  The modernized sport route follows this short crack and continues up the slab until one can walk without using the hands.

Clip a couple bolts trending right from the ledge, then up some overlaps past a couple more clips.  Finish on some featured face.

Climb some blocks and fight a small tree - then delicate stepping up and right with a little overlap for help.  Eventually head straight up on easier slab.  Make a neat mantle at the roof and find some bolted anchors in front of you.

Another fun face route with a lot of texture.  Collect the whole set.

Foxy Dance is a sustained micro edge crimper climb without rests but good pro.

There's some pretty thin, sketchy balance moves up on that ramp, just below the roof.

Short.  Two clips past some lieback/pull left edge, zig zag right then left and reach up to the anchors.

Thinning moves to the roof (Visor) and a heck of a step up balance move to get over it to the chains.

Corner Groveling is a steepish slab climb that makes use of the left side of the dihederal when the edges get to small for peddling your feet.

Last route west on the "Visor Wall." (It's only about 15 feet further west to the next "Tarzan Wall" route.)  Anyhow, this route is old style, but with beefy pro; the first 2 hangers look like big pound-ins, the next 5 are homemade angle iron hangers with 3/8" bolts. (If you have way beefy 'biners, they may not fit easily through the holes.)  P1 zigzags for about 95 feet to cold shuts.  I'm sure most folks rap off here.

If you do the second pitch, a light rack may help, but not much.  There's another angle-iron bolt hanger and a bent piton on the way to running out the entire 70m along moderate terrain.

We walked maybe 40 feet west on the ledge to the top of Moorcroft City Slicker and did 4 raps down w 1 rope.

Aside from one move getting over the roof on pitch 1, this is a nice 5.4-5.6 slab wander.  Take a couple pieces for second pitch if you want - we didn't use them.  Anchors are all bolted.

P1 - Up towards the left weakness in the roof band.  Or, up a bit right of this on "Red Line" if that looks more fun.  There are two bolted anchors 5 feet apart just above this roofline... pick one.

P2, P3 - Up.  Just go basically up on some nice mellow slab.  Start of pitch 2 you might want some gear (otherwise P2 only has 1 bolt), and you should have a right facing corner of semi broken rock just to your left.

P4 - gets real low angle here.  But... up and slight right and you will find another bolted anchor.

We linked 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 with a 60m.

Descent - rap the route.

Climbs over the same visor roof the other routes do, but easier and just plain fun with big holds over the roof.

The Belgium Chocolate Waltz is a climb here that makes use of the irregularities from what would be on a slab route.  Yes, its a pleasing zig zagging line the make use of the various small brownish corners and holds.

Short, but mostly fun.  Start up some easy slab (past a couple bolts).  Make the hardest move at ~15feet to get over a small step/roof and into a nice hand crack.  Follow this crack up on gear, then climb on top of some block up top to the bolted anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Face Base