The route starts with casual friction climbing on a moderate angled slab (the sapling is off of course) and follows solid stone up through a very shallow runnel to a comfortable ledge. Fun terrain takes you to another ledge with an overhang and an exciting but casual exit through large features. Be sure to extend the draw on the slab before the ledge as well as the draw in the roof. The line leads out right, and then a few face moves take you to a casual topout passing a recommended gear placement or two (a 0.75 and 1 are ample). This one goes all the way to the summit and a very comfortable belay ledge. Just keep going straight up. It is highly recommended to climb it in multi-pitch fashion, bringing up your second. This avoids drag if toproping, and offers the most fulfilling experience this wall has to offer. Sit back, and enjoy the view.

You’ll want a 70m rope. If you have a 60m, summit together, and either walk

east down through the corridor, accessing the chain anchors for

Overpopulation

where a 60m rope will reach the ground, or

walk off the backside (descending an easy Class 4 chimney then walking west and back to Arthur’s Trail or descending through a deep runnel slot after passing the seasonal waterfall and

Black Dog

, eventually back to the base of the wall).

All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here:

nococlimbing.org/

.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.

Overview Effect

Mossy Moe

Black Dog

Green Sky

Overpopulation

The Giggle Maker

Lagunita

Crystal Pinch

'Old School Route'

This is the 'hard' line on the wall. Waltz on small crystals and big reaches through a wavy but steep bulge. Make your way up below the large roof that pops out the top of the wall. Giggle your way through fun holds, and blap through the bulge! Another steep groove takes you to the top.

Mossy Moe is a fun and aesthetic moderate on a techy granite face. Leave

terra firma

through a quick compression warm-up and up through nicely placed cobbles.

Head towards the paralleled crystal rails, and feel the power of technique!

Who's a good dog?!

Black Dog is a zone classic! Moderate climbing on bomber, black rock speckled with large, chewtoy cobbles. Eventually move up and roll over through 'The Groove', and pet your way to the top. No move is harder than easy.

Sometime 'Black Dog' likes to swim, and the black rock can be wet. If the top of the groove is wet, use alternative holds and sequences to the left of the bolt line. Fun!

Green Sky is a quality line that takes you up the main face of the wall. Moderate climbing takes you on more and more cobbles up to a steeper boulder problem. Slap and maybe slip off the sloper move. Body funk your way through a steep and entertaining groove to the top.

The route starts with casual friction climbing on a moderate angled slab and follows solid stone up to a dark water stained runnel. A beefy old piton is found in the runnel. Pulling through it takes you to a ledge. The natural line of continuous difficulty pushes you out left a bit, bypassing the 2nd runnel, and then up and back right on solid features over a bulge and to the summit ramp. All in all, it is a consistently fun route on quality stone.

Note, charging through the 2nd runnel goes at ~11+. It offers an incredibly technical balance sequence. If redpointing, you’ll also need to pull the crux sequence to gain the next bolt. A longish draw can be clipped from below on pinkpoint.

All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here:

nococlimbing.org/

.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.

This is the furthest route to the left of the Main Wall. Start on low angle terrain, and move up through bulges and vertical holds. Take it up through a large bowled runnel to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pinch your way up technical crystals and cobbles to a small roof encounter. Find your feet, and dance your way through the technical crux boulder problem. Reward yourself with fun stemming in a featured runnel.

Welp... gotta have it.... This is an old school line for the traditionalists.

This has all the makings of an old school classic: low angle, dirt, moss, small plants, and shrubs, an old piton, and some gear in a large pillar flake...plus you get to place widgets.

It is a must do for those with a traditional heart and a propensity for adventure-neering.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Overlook (Arthur's Rock)