This is named after the large, cat-sized flake on the ground that broke off on me while pulling a sit start. Sit start on the ideal ledge with matching hands, and try to stay on the face and off the edges and crack out right for a full value, V1. It almost feels like climbing up the nose of an exposed alpine arête...but not really.

Flakey Flakes

Hold My Beer

Warm-up

Zoidburg Pinch

Unnamed

Mike's Not Home

Lieback Crack

Grumpy

Dave's Route

20' right of

Mike's Not Home

is a wall facing perpendicularly with moves that are much tougher than they look. This needs cleaning, it has lots of moss & lichens. I couldn't figure out the sequence.

This is a vertical hand crack great for practicing crack technique. I named it as such, because there's a great place to set your beer (or bowl?).

This is the first dirty but climbable looking face with bulges and notches. The rock is black and dirty, with lichens here, but this is an ok warm-up to climb and downclimb. It is mostly in the shade of the trees by the road.

Pinch the weird, square notch out right for the sit start, and work your way up.

Vertical crack leads up to a horizontal crack with a contrived sit start on a detached, vertical flake. The topout is more secure than it looks.

This is a wide crack that's great for practicing lieback moves. Downclimb it for more fun.

Grumpy is a short but slightly tricky problem. Begin with somewhat of an awkward start with a high right leg and right hand undercling. Push hard with your left hand, and bump up your right hand to a knob on a small outcropping. From this point, it's a pretty mellow scramble to the top. Top out, and it's a bit of a hike down the left side of the boulder wall to the bottom.

This is easily my favorite route and what drew me to bring my crashpad in the first place. Sit start with a right handed pinch/undercling, then traverse out left. Work your way diagonally up and left to the solid, left hand pinch. If you have to bail while topping out, look out for the boulder below and behind! The topout is mossy and a little insecure.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lemon Reservoir Boulder Area