Atrocious climbing up this pinnacle's southwest arete puts you on top of a cool desert summit in a lonely part of the Wonderland. An old bolt ladder now a classic grain arete lieback.

Ballbearings Under Foot

Exit Stage Right

Psoriasis

Exit Stage Left

Rick Rockwell

Farewell Ambassador

Escape From the Planet Earth

This is a fun face climb, with some pleasant runouts.

This route is near the center of the face. First move is a high step lieback and mantle to a bolt. A bit unnerving for those not used to the old school Josh routes. Continue up past 3 bolts to a false summit slab. (The route actually climbs to the right and more directly than what the Vogel guide shows). From the false summit slab, clip an ancient 1/4" bolt and boulder to the summit.

Climb "Exit Stage Right" to the second bolt. Traverse left to the second bolt of "Farewell Ambassador." Continue left for 10-15 feet and then follow holds to the top. Parallels "Farewell" but never gets that close.

This is a very good route, and has had very few ascents, as it is not well known to the general public.  It is located to the right of Escape from the Planet Earth, and has 4 bolts. This could be the best climb in the Escape Rock area.

A three bolt variation off of "Exit Stage Right." Climb the latter route to the first bolt, then traverse left past the crux (a brief section of dark, thin and slightly crumbly rock) to a bolt. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the upper level on excellent steep friction with great clipping stances. From the 3rd new bolt, head slightly right to an inset rock/stance. Continue up slab to a false summit. An ancient 1/4" bolt will be at the top of the slab near the base of another vertical wall. Climb the face above to the left and belay from natural anchors under a summit boulder.

The name bemoans the closing of Ambassador Auditorium in Pasadena, CA. A world-class concert hall where I was the art director at the time.

This is a sustained finger crack in a corner.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Escape Rock (Southwest Face)