A good climb although a little awkward at its crux.

The middle section is the crux, but if you pass it you are rewarded with some nice moves all the way up to the anchors.

The Moon

Thunder Underground

Unknown A

The Sun

Firewater

Mighty Earth

Distance of Man

The Tribe

The crux of this climb is both short, and very powerful.

Climb up the right side of the wall at the left of the crag.  A good undercut allows the bolt at the crux to be clipped.

The following sequence is very powerful, but thankfully short.  Once the large holds on the right arete are reached the climb is all but over.

How difficult this climb is depends on the route you take!    Climb the wide crack too long and it is no harder than 5.10c.  If you chose to traverse right onto the steep face it provides a great 5.11b.

The start is awkward but not too hard.   After reaching the wide crack step right onto the face.   Make committing moves up the face until positive holds are attained.

A slight move right and bigger holds reduce the heart rate, and allow the anchors to be found.

if you can get past the munge (guano, pellets, lichen, etc.), this route actually has some fun movement.  climb up and right from an alcove/slight overhang to crux moves (easier out right, harder straight up) around the 3rd bolt. continue up to the anchor on easier ground.

The start is blocky and not memorable.   Before long a short steep face is encountered.   The crux is passing the 2nd bolt on the face.

Once the large ledge is reached easier, although not easy, climbing is all that remains between you and the anchors.

Climb up and clip the 1st bolt.   If you traverse left immediately after the first bolt towards the 2nd the climbing is better and harder (making the traverse higher is easier, but less direct).   After clipping the 2nd bolt climb directly up the vertical wall on very positive holds.

At the 4th bolt make some powerful moves up and into the corner on the right.   Once established in the corner the climbing eases and the top is soon reached.

This is definitely one of the best routes on the wall.

Climb the small dihedral in the middle of the cliff.   As the dihedral finished make a couple of moves up right before a good sequence of moves finds you below a small overlap on the left of the arete.

The clip above the overlap isn't easy, but after you have it clipped you can make the crux moves up to the right.

The remainder of the climb is steep, but on positive holds.

A good sustained route.

Easily climb up the large dihedral.  The holds lead right so follow them.

When the climbing gets steep, the bolts and the holds head left.

Commit to the holds and continue on up.

The climbing is steep, but not too hard.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Looking Wall